GPT 06 | Descabezado Grande
Vilches
19 January 2024
I arrive at Vilches with the last bus to start my hike early the next day. Asking a woman on the bus if it’s possible to camp by the entrance of the national reserve Altos de Lircay she says that there is no water.
I ask the bus driver for an alternative and he mentions that there is a park a bit further down from the last stop. Camping is not really allowed there but the gatekeeper is a friend of his. :)
After pitching my tent in at a cosy spot a bit tucked away from the main pathes, I head over to the house across the street to fill up my water bottles. I also buy some freshly baked bread that I eat it right there. Then I get offered some wine and in the end I spend the night there. Next morning I get introduced to the family’s little empanada factory.
There’s a lot of tourists over the weekend and besides the fresh bread, their delicious empanadas are in high demand. Made with a lot of love and an old chimney that is fired with wood.
Valle Venado
21 January 2024 | 34°C
At 7am my alarm clock goes off. First time I have set it while on this trail.
Why? It’s a Sunday, vacation time in Chile and I wanna make sure that I can get into national reserve Altos de Lircay before a potential quota is reached. I am well aware that I have to pay the entrance fee for both the reserve and a fee for the first campground in roughly 20km.
With a friendly smile the park ranger at the entrance tells me that I also need to pay for the campground in the other national reserve where I plan to exit. And it has to be paid online. And no cellphone coverage here at the entrance.
Whaaaaat? I have 2 hours to fix this as they won’t let people in anymore after 11am.
My first try: the hotel just a few steps away. I ring the bell. A friendly lady tells me that their WiFi has problems these days. Meow! Next try: that spot a bit further down the road that someone showed me yesterday where there seems to be coverage. Worked yesterday to write a WhatsApp message but no chance buying anything today.
A bit frustrated and angry I walk up the road again back to the park entrance. A group of people I met having breakfast on the road is still there and I pour out all my frustration about this injustice. Why is this info nowhere documented?
“What if my husband drives you down the road where there’s coverage?” one lady asks. Did someone say there are no trail angels on the Greater Patagonian Trail? Here she is!
After all the paperwork at the entrance, walking the 20km to the campground feels like a breeze. I get there at 6.30pm. 2 arrieros and the caretaker are there.
By then I am not aware yet that one of them is an important gatekeeper for my upcoming adventure ….
Descabezado Basecamp
22 January 2024
Descabezado Grande
23 January 2024 | 31°C
Is it worth to climb up all the way to the summit of Volcán Descabezado Grande in order to take a look into its crater?
In the morning, I am still not quite sure … I woke up several times at night. I slept a bit cold at the basecamp and it was so bright with the full moon that I was hoping someone would finally turn off the lights so I could fall asleep.
Ok let’s take at least a look how long and steep it is, I tell myself.
Long story short: it’s was super steep and felt veeeery long.
Two steps forward and one step back, is how it felt walking on an eternal scree slope. At one point I thought about turning around but there was a big snow field in the way so I kept going.
Once I get to a point where I could climb up on big rocks on all fours, progress was a bit faster giving me confidence that I could make it. Then a turn, another scree field and another turn … and suddenly I stood on the edge of the crater - almost couldn’t believe it!
The way down was great fun, sliding down the scree fields felt like flying… or rather like a moon walk. I reach my tent at the basecamp in no time, pack everything and headed down to Refugio Blanquillo.
I didn’t expect anyone there as I thought the arrieros I had met the day before had moved on but I was greeted by two dogs that were happy to see someone. In their company, I prepare my dinner and then set up my camp on the other side of the river.
Once the arrieros come back from their work, I join them for a tea with “agua loca” (crazy water = hard liquor) to celebrate my ascent of the volcano 🥳
El Bolson Campground
24 January 2024
Molina
25 January 2024 | 32°C
Zero day in Molina, a cute little town about an hour from Puente Ingles where I left the trail. It’s a bumpy bus ride for the first few kilometers. I check accommodation in Molina on the way.
An airbnb offer with a dog, two cats and a big garden calls my attention. On the bus a talk to Angel for quite a while who has worked for several Dutch priests, knows the exact dates of a lot of important events and shows me videos of his bike rides. Before we get off he gives me a giant tomato.
I spent some time at “la plaza” in la Molina, a central square with a lot of trees and shade, a playground, men playing cards on small tables and benches all around. It’s a lively place.
