Day 1 | To Viterskalet Hut | 8km
I'm feeling absolutely drained on the small 50-seater plane to Hemavan. Arriving at Stockholm Airport late the previous night, I had a somewhat restless sleep, anxious about potentially missing my alarm for the early morning flight.
“Hemavan Airport” is just a small airfield with a little shed as a terminal. Waiting for my luggage, I start a conversation with a Swedish-German couple along with a Dutch fellow traveller. I quickly grab some gas from the camp store and head to the supermarket for groceries. The Dutch guy stands out with his massive backpack, loaded up with nine days' worth of food. I spend more time shopping and packing than the others, who have disappeared by the time I'm ready to hit the trail.
At Hemavan Fjällstation, I run into two friendly French hikers who have just completed their thru-hike and generously offer me some of their spare gas canisters. With the fresh supplies, I set off for the starting point of the Kungsleden trail. On my way, a fellow hiker warns me of strong winds and a tent pole mishap from the previous night.
Drizzling rain accompanies me through the skiing area, where I cross paths with numerous groups of trail runners who seem unfazed by the gloomy weather. Surprisingly, no one slips on the wet planks.
As I reach a river, I notice a few tents already pitched, creating a tempting campspot. However, I decide to press on a bit further. Near the Viterskalet hut, a group of young Swedes is arriving and being greeted by the wardens. Camping by the hut doesn't appear comfortable, so I continue for about a kilometre. I find a spacious, flat area with a toilet. It's a tad windy, and I briefly wonder if this is the spot where the guy I met earlier broke his tent pole. But I eventually find a sheltered nook in a sort of ditch and set up my tent.
Despite a hearty dinner, I remain uncomfortably cold and am concerned that I won't warm up. In a spur-of-the-moment decision, I pack up and make a quick return to the hut. Surprisingly, the brisk jog back has me feeling warm in no time. However, at the hut's entrance, I receive disappointing news: there are no free beds available. Disheartened, I pitch my tent behind the hut and cocoon myself in my rain jacket for added warmth.