Day 18 | To Tjäkta Shelter | 20km
I learn a valuable lesson as I broke one of my golden rules: "Do not sleep on wet and cold ground!" The consequences were evident as I spent a restless night, frequently waking up due to the chill. I resorted to doing push-ups to generate some warmth, longing for the night to pass quickly. I finally fell into a deep sleep around 2 am, only to wake up refreshed at 7 am.
Despite the poor night's sleep, my spirits are surprisingly high, and I feel quite awake. I join Paul for breakfast, and around 8:30 am, we embark on our journey. After a brief 5 km trek, we come across a shelter that offers a welcome escape from the chilly weather; warm inside due to several hikers who camped and head their breakfasts there.
We continue our trek towards the Selka hut, and upon our arrival, the rain returns. The hut is managed by a delightful young host and features a fantastic shop where I make some interesting discoveries, including freeze-dried smoothies and canned pineapple. A vegan lentil dish also captures my attention. The warden kindly suggests that we utilize the porch of the sauna building (unfortunately closed due to COVID) for our lunch break, providing shelter from the rain. Five hikers, including us, congregate in this protected spot to prepare their meals. The other hikers are heading south to Nikkalouokta and Kvikkjokk after coming from the pass. One of them mentions that it took 4-5 hours to reach Selka from the Tjakta hut.
The vegan lentil dish significantly boosts my energy, and I practically jog toward the pass. We make a stop at a shelter situated at the pass and receive information from a Belgian couple who had phoned the Tjakta hut earlier, reporting that only one bed remained for the night. They decide to investigate, and this prompts Paul and me to ponder our options. In the end, we choose to stay and sleep in the shelter instead of potentially camping at higher altitudes.
Around 6:30 pm, following our dinner, we hear noises from outside. Two Belgian hikers enter, seeking refuge from the strong winds and falling snow, waiting for their friend who is still making their way to the pass. It becomes a cozy gathering in the shelter. A few minutes later, another hiker, slightly wet and frozen, arrives. They all plan to hike further south to a campsite about 2 km down the trail. Paul and I express doubt regarding the availability of suitable camping spots in the rocky terrain, but they decide to head out after a while.
We decide not to use too much of the firewood; Paul chops a small log from the storage shed and lights a small fire in the oven. I start writing in my journal, while Paul indulges in his Netflix series to pass the time. Suddenly, we hear noises from outside again, which is unusual as it's already growing dark. The door swings open, and a hiker enters, seeking shelter for the night. Hailing from the Czech Republic, he is heading south after arriving from Alejaure earlier in the day. He kindly offers us tea, and we all settle in cozily within the shelter, now comfortably warmed by the small oven.