Day 20 | To Abisko | 27km
I experience another chilly night, but it's an improvement from the previous ones. I'm relieved that this is my final day in a tent. Waking up at 5:30 am, I decide to enjoy an early and leisurely breakfast inside the shelter. Paul joins me a bit later, and we commence our hike around 7:30 am. The "autobahn," wooden planks facilitating walking on uneven and wet terrain, is quite slippery this morning. I nearly slip several times, prompting me to walk beside the tracks, even though it's muddy and challenging.
Once we hit the trail, the morning unfolds into an easy walk for the next couple of hours. Dark skies loom but every moment is magical, especially in the early hours. Around 11 am, we reach Abiskojaure hut, deciding to take an early lunch break. The host, a friendly soul, offers to open the shop for us. The small shops in the huts are often closed during the day as guests leave in the morning, and new guests tend not to arrive before 4 pm or so, giving the warden and personnel time to clean and organize or go for a small hike.
I cook my last freeze-dried meal (couscous) but only eat half to avoid feeling too full for the remaining walk. An older lady helping out at the hut expresses her preference for the smaller, narrower trails over the wide ones leading to Abisko. It's only when hiking out that I understand what she meant—the trail is almost as wide as a gravel road. After some trail runners pass me, I stow my trekking poles into my pack. Although the colors are still beautiful, I'm somewhat disappointed with this part of the trail. I feel that the trail for southbounders starts a bit boring, but with all the initial excitement, they might not see it that way.
A sign indicates 4 km to Abisko, and the final stretch feels like an eternity until captivating rapids come into view. The trail becomes populated with hikers heading in the opposite direction, beginning their journeys. Abisko seems within reach, and my pace quickens until I spot a wooden structure marking the start of the Kungsleden trail. I've essentially walked in the "wrong" direction, but the wooden wall with the names of the huts I passed brings a surge of happiness.
With my finisher photo captured, I hurry to the Fjällstation, where the lobby buzzes with activity. It's the perfect moment to fulfil my promise to Paul—a beer, owed since the rowing section after Jäckvik. Engaging in conversations with fellow hikers, we later move to a guesthouse on the other side of Abisko. The windowless bedrooms, reminding me of the Stockholm airport hotel, feel peculiar, but who needs windows in the dark of night?
After a refreshing shower, the nearby supermarket becomes my playground. The array of choices overwhelms me. Despite it being dinner time, I decide to kick off my feast with a family pack of my beloved kanelbullar (cinnamon rolls). Hmmmh ….