Campo to Mount Laguna

Day 1 (May 1)
To Lake Morena
20 miles

We started to head out of the trail angel house at 6 a.m. after a delicious breakfast. Arriving at the southern terminus at around 7h45. Started walking after a quick foto session with other hikers at around 8h30. It was a bit chilly that morning which was perfect for hiking.

Fairly easy walk until an ascent just before Lake Morena. Had to count steps to keep me entertained and quite a challenge in the heat. Felt good afterwards though. Met people from Frodo&Scout at camp and had some beers at the store. Great to have a shower (after one day of hiking only … lol). Almost too tired to cook in the dark but forced myself to eat some ramen.

Day 2 (May 2)
To Cibbets Campground
12 miles

My legs are really tired. I feel a bit more energized after some Gatorade. Very hot day. Met Sam and Johne from Frodos on the way and other people sitting in the shade during a break. Stayed with a group of 15 at Cibbets Campground.

Day 3 (May 3)
To Mount Laguna
11 miles

I hike alone for most of the day as the group moves slower. There was a guy explaining the world to everyone which I found quite exhausting. Enjoyed quietness alone and also wanted to learn how to navigate. Steep for the first part of the day but then a nice stretch in the forest with tons of birds before Mount Laguna. So beautiful! Enjoyed so much being in nature. Bought some socks, a rain cover, and a headlamp at the Mount Laguna Outfitter. Quite a few hikers were changing gear there. Picked up my first resupply package at the Post Office.

The lady there funnily remembered the “Bach” package. Others are shipping stuff home or dropping it off in the hiker box. Even food! I also wish I had not sent so much myself. Pack now heavy again :(

2 snake encounters in the afternoon. Almost stepped on one!

Mt. Laguna to Warner Springs

Day 4 (May 4)
To campsite in boulder field (mile 55.9)

Late start today as I started writing my journal. Heading out of camp at 10 am and walking alone for most of the morning. Tried to get water at a spigot which turned out to be off. Damn, I had not checked the water report. I still had some water but asked some army guys where to find water. They gave me almost 1.5 liters as they said they had more than enough. The trail provides! Met Reto on the way and camped with 2 other girls at a nice spot between big boulders.

Day 5 (May 5)
To tent site at mile 71
15ish miles

Though tucked away between the boulders, it was still very windy all night but my tent held up pretty well. I slept without my puffy and did not feel cold though my sleeping bag felt a bit damp after putting up my tent last night which made me worry a bit. I put my rain jacket on top of my sleeping bag but that really made me sweat. The wind continued after leaving camp until about 2 p.m. when the clouds went away and revealed a clear and sunny sky. Together with Reto, we picked up Nick from England on the way. Took us quite a while to find a sheltered, cozy spot.

Dinner was “Tagliatelle with a delicate butter-flavoured sauce”. Yum!

Day 6 (May 6)
To Julian (mile 77)

It slightly started raining at night but clear skies when I woke up. After breakfast and packing most of my stuff, it started raining quite heavily again, so I decided to stay in my tent and write this here. When after another 45 minutes the rain did not cease, we packed and started walking. It stopped eventually, the air was pretty cold though. We met XC on the way and after calling the people of Stagecoach Campground who said that they do not have cabins anymore, we hitched into Julian.

Hard to get a room there. Finally, we took a king suite for $190 for the 3 of us. After having hamburgers at Carmen’s where we also had the chance to do our laundry for free, XC found 3 other hikers who wanted to share a room. The room price would be only $30 for each of us then. Nice! Felt good to have a shower and fresh clothes.

Day 7 (May 7)
Tentsite at 3rd Gate (Mile 91.2)
14 miles

After some emailing and a great lunch, I hitched out of Julian to Scissors Crossing with three other hikers around noon. 2 older, very cool ladies took us in their pickup truck. Reto stayed in Julian for a zero-day as his ankle was still swollen. I walked alone for the most part until I met Lauren with whom I camped at the so-called Third Gate with a few others.

Day 8 (May 8)
To campsite at mile 101.1

Got up late and had a slow breakfast. Treated my blisters which had been bothering me the day before. I was the last one walking out of camp at 9h30. Talked to several day hikers during the day and had lunch with Warren who had a bad ankle. Passed mile 100! Arriving at a water source, there was some cool trail magic provided by a nice guy called Minty Mike who had hiked the trail the year before. Beers, chips & hot dogs! Plus chairs!

Met Listen & Squirrel there and Kent and one of the Twisted Sisters. At 4 p.m., I decided to pitch my tent there as the next campground was still 8 miles to go.

Day 9 (May 9)
To Warner Springs (mile 103.5) and then to tent site at mile 114
13 miles

Gave German lessons with Jake at the campsite. Learned what poison ivy looks like. Passed Eagle Rock and some beautiful meadows. Lunch with David at Warner Springs Grill & Golf. Post Office to pick up 2nd resupply box. Repacking, emailing, charging and “bucket shower” at the Warner Springs Ressource Center. Left before hamburger party at 4pm. Camp at a small site by Agua Caliente Creek with Rose, David and Jack.

Warner Springs to Idyllwild

Day 10 (May 10)
To campground at mile 131.5

Hiking with David, interesting conversations about European and US politics. Found Reto again while he was taking a break. Continue hiking the three of us. Lunch break below 2 giant rocks. Went to “Mike’s Place” where we had hamburgers, soda & beer. Camp with Reto, Kurt and Jack a couple of miles further up the trail.

Day 11 (May 11)
To campground at mile 149

Incredibly hot today. I left camp at 7 am and felt like the temperature was already at 20 degrees Celcius. Hardly any shade. With Reto, we found two giant rocks to hide from the sun during lunch. Very hungry all day.

Exhausted walking in the heat. Maybe should eat more bars during the today. Camp close to PVC.

Day 12 (May 12)

Easy hike down to PVC. Great atmosphere with live music in the morning. Neil, the owner, loved my pack. Ordered pancakes “full stack" which were 3 huge ones. I saved one for breakfast the next day (with Nutella!).

Day 13 (May 13)
To Idyllwild

Got up early and was on trail by 6.30 am. After hiking for 15mins, I reached the next tentsite where Reto was about to pack his stuff. Walked to the fire closure and then the detour which consisted of a few switchbacks and a longer walk through a forest until we reached the highway. Hitched from there to Idyllwild. Went to post office and met Luna again, then walked to a campground where I saw a lot of familiar faces. Really cool atmosphere! Party at night.

Idyllwild to Big Bear

DAY 15 | Mile 180.8 to Mile 193.6

Woke up at around 5.30am as the first of the 3 of us. Our tentsite was at  an altitude of 9001 feet / 2700 m. Walked to the edge of the mountain where there was an ocean of clouds below covering the valley. Beautiful views while the sun was rising.

We walked approx. 5 miles to a spring to fill up water which was crystal clear but freezing cold when filtering it. We continued after our lunch break without going up Mt. San Jacinto peak. Despite that we still had to climb some steep ascents during the early afternoon.

Arriving at the trailhead there suddenly was trail magic again! A very nice couple had decided to make hamburgers and offer freshly squeezed orange juice at the trailhead on a Sunday afternoon. We continued another 3.3 miles before setting up camp.

 DAY 16 | To Ziggy & the Bear (Mile 210.8)

All morning descending the mountain we had to climb the day before.

DAY 17 | To Mile 229.4

Got up at 5 am as we wanted to head out early at 6 am. Giggles was planning to come with me and Suds but in the end decided to head out later.

We walked through a beautiful valley along a river almost all day. Both hungry at 4pm, we started to cook "dinner" at nice tentsite, decided to stay there and set up camp right here.

DAY 18 | Campsite to Onyx Summit

We walked through partly burned area that looked like after a bomb attack. We hike into the night and had beautiful views down at Palm Springs that was all illuminated.
At 10 pm we finally set up camp just before onyx summit.

DAY 19 | Onyx Summit to Big Bear Hostel

Trail magic just after Onyx Summit from big bear hostel: sofa and lots of cookies and other supplies. Met Liz and Re from Australia again on trail. Hiked to highway 18 (more cookies there) and quite fast got a hitch into town with a Mexican guy. Checked in at Big Bear Hostel for one night, the weekend would be closed due to a private event. Great dinner at an Indian restaurant (something different!) but very tired. Shared room with snowman and woman from Oakland.

Big Bear to Wrightwood

Day 21
To CG Little Bear Springs (Mile 285.6)
19.1 Miles

Surprisingly hard to start walking again after my zero day. Maybe it was due to the heavy breakfast at the hostel with veggie tortillas? Felt like i was still digesting when i started walking. That changed though shortly and without noticing it i had done 10 miles already before my lunch break.

Quite an easy walk, mostly even with only some very minor ascents and great views over to Big Bear Lake.

Arrived at Little Bear Springs Campground around 18h where some hikers (including Matt and Amanda I had met on the way) had started pitching their tents already. Hesitated though to continue walking as my feet felt quite fresh still and I wanted to complete 20 miles but decided to stay as the campground was quite spacious and even and I was not sure who would be at the next one 1.2 miles ahead.

Very cold wild suddenly when preparing dinner (hands freezing) so that I crawled into my tent early. Heated up my sleeping bag with some sit-ups.

DAY 22
To mile 306 (just before hot springs)
21 miles

Very cold last night. Condensated water frozen on my tent walls while still cozy in my sleeping bag. I decided to make a quick coffee to warm up. Not sure though if that was the right thing to do or if hiking right away would have been better. My feet were quite cold when I started walking but warmed up pretty fast. Good to feel the warm sunlight. Walked a bit with Nightcrawler before speeding up.

Took a long break around noon and packed out tent and quilt to let them dry while taking a big nap. Had already walked 10 miles by then. Quite a few water sources so no need to carry too much water,

The afternoon went by quite fast. Set up my tent on a small pond with Nightcrawler. Amanda arrived later and stayed while both Jackson and Eric continued. Slept extremely well that night, the sandy ground was even and warm.

DAY 23
To Silverwood Lake - Mile 326
20.5 Miles

Morning chilled with Amanda and Nightcrawler. Had breakfast and then started walking the 2 miles to hot springs. Beautiful morning and beautiful walking along the creek. Met Shiloh on the way und shortly after reached hot springs.

Although camping was forbidden there were quite a few tents there and it was actually a cool spot to camp. There were various small pools with hot water (some more some less warm). Stayed there for a couple of hours with Shiloh, Nightcrawler, Eric, Jackson & Steffen.

Headed out at around 10am and walked most of afternoon with Shiloh. Camped in picnic area of beautiful Silverwood Lake.

Day 24 | To Swarthout Canyon (Mile 347.2)
15 miles

Day 25 | To Guffy Campground (Mile 364.3)
17 miles

Day 26 | To Wrightwood (Mile 369.5)
5 miles

Met Warren again while waiting at the parking to get a ride. Joined a group with Snowman. Walked around town and got some freebies such as a hot dog at the gas station and from the hiker box at Mountain Hardware store. To my surprise, I met Flaming Hot there again … I thought he had been way ahead already. Continued to Evergreen Cafe for breakfast with Yoda. Great French toast (yummy!). Almost everyone from Guffy's campground was there.

Wrightwood to Agua Dulce

DAY 27 | To Tentsite Mile 379.5

Enjoyed the morning at Joan's house. There was freshly brewed coffee, granola and fresh fruit ready for me. I added some bagels I had left over from the day before.

As windshields in the mountain hardware store were sold out and my MYOG shield made out of aluminium paper was screwed already, I built a new one.

After a very relaxing morning, I finally left the house to get a hitch up to Inspiration Point. Took only 10 minutes until I was picked up.

Walking was quite easy, maybe because of the temperature, maybe because my feet were relaxed. I soon reached Mt. Baden Powell which was a very steep ascent for almost 4.5 miles.

I reached the intersection of the summit around 6.30 pm and decided to walk up after speaking to a Mexican guy who said it’s just a mile and that he would go up too. Beautiful view over the mountains in the twilight.

After coming down, I walked another 2 miles until I saw a campsite with 2 tents and decided to pitch my tent there too.
 

DAY 28 | To Cooper Canyon Camp (Mile 395.2)

Met Shiloh at the tent site in the morning. Filled water at Little Jimmy Spring.

A lot of day hikers and scout groups for Memorial Day weekend.

Detour around frog closure via Highway 2 and Burkhard Trail (approx 5km). It involved road walking on the highway, a lot of motorbike and car racing. After reaching the campground, I headed up Burkhard trail until meeting the PCT again and climbed a steep bit up to Cooper Canyon Campground.

Day 29
To mile 415
19.9 Miles

Poison Ivy?

Got up at 5 am and was on trail with Shiloh at 6 am. Quickly grabbed my bagel but had no time for coffee. Sun was crawling up the mountain while we climbed the first small hill after leaving the campground.

Shortly after we crossed the 400-mile mark and after roughly 5 miles we reached Camp Glennwood where we had planned to get water.

The camp is basically a small house that can be used by Boy Scouts. Some hikers including Uturn, Hawthorn and Snowman had camped there and apparently, there was some trail magic the night before with beer and hotdogs provided by Brad who spent time at the house to do some repairs that day. It was his birthday and we had a nice chat. The camp/house formerly was a school for the children of the workers who once built the closeby highway 2.  

Due to our early start today, by 11.30 am when we stopped for a lunch break we had already done 10 miles. Nice!

Early afternoon we heard and saw a rattlesnake below a big rock. Apparently, it was disturbed by another hiker that sat on top.

As we continued my ankle suddenly started to hurt. Took a quick break but then continued to the campground for another 5 miles together with Siloh. This was the furthest I could go today as my foot urgently needed a rest. Not sure how I managed but maybe the fact that we were walking through a beautiful canyon helped. To my surprise when arriving at the tent site, we still had almost done 20 miles.

Lipstick joined a bit later and we all prepared our dinners together.

The tent site is located on a ridge with beautiful views but it might get windy there tonight. Just had to re-adjust the tent lines and put some heavier stones on top of the stakes while I was writing this. Very cosy though inside as the sun had already heated it up from outside.

And I finally got my trail name today: Rainbow (related to my tarptent rainbow).

Day 30
To North Fork Ranger Station (Mile 436)
21 Miles

Woke up at night and had to go for a pee. Once I had stepped outside I saw in the distance down the hill the lights of a bigger city (Pasadena?). We were actually not so far away from civilisation as I thought.

Short walk to next stop at Mill Creek Fire Station to fill up water.

Met Freya from Hamburg and again Hawkeye, Seabiscuit and Lipstick. Had to take quite a bit of water as the next water would be in roughly 29 miles.

A lot of sun all day and barely any clouds! Luckily after a first steep ascent, we walked through a stretch of wood which provided quite good shade.

Day 31
To Acton KOA (Mile 444.3)
8 Miles

Started hiking at 7.15. It became very warm very early but my feet felt quite good and by 7.30 am I had arrived at the Acton KOA campground.

Maybe the urge for a shower and laundry had pushed me. That morning I did not even want to put on my shirt so smelly was it. Fortunately, I found my third pair of socks that I had not worn so far.

Immediately had a soda.

Figured out that I had shopped my box to the Acton post office instead of the campground.

After taking a shower and laundry, I tried to hitch to the town of Acton (about 4 miles from the CG) which worked quite well as one car had just given a ride to another hiker but had to go back to town.
 

Day 32
To Agua Dulce/Hiker Heaven

Started hiking at 5:45 to avoid the heat for the 10 miles to Agua Dulce. The first 4 to 5 miles were ascending and luckily that was during the first 2 hours when the sun was not so intense yet although it was almost needless to put my puffy on in the morning as I had to take it off after 20 minutes of hiking already. Time was passing fast and all in all, it was less exhausting than I had expected. Walked through a really nice canyon with giant strangely formed rocks after crossing the Highway 14 tunnel. Thought that if I had hiked at night it would have been cool to camp under one of those giant rocks.

Walk into Agua Dulce was quite easy and once I reached "downtown" (which basically consists of 2 restaurants and a supermarket, at least that is what it seemed), I immediately saw familiar faces at the breakfast place. Met again Yoda and Warren who I had not seen for a few days and Hawkeye who had started hiking out of Acton KOA around the same time as myself.

Agua Dulce to Tehachapi

DAY 33 (June 2)
To Tentsite Mile 471.7
5 miles

Chilled morning at Hiker Heaven.  I signed up for a ride to REI at 10 a.m. the day before and just before heading out, I saw Giggles! Great surprise and really cool. We had not seen each other since Ziggy & the Bear.

The ride to REI was a 30-minute drive. The driver was a funny person explaining fun facts about Agua Dulce. It is named like that as its water contains small amounts of Arsene which is not dangerous for humans but gives the water a slight sweet taste.  

Primarily went to REI to get a GPS device for emergency situations such as Spot or Delorme. Surprisingly staff was not very helpful in choosing either one so I needed to check Spot's website and call from
store to get more info on subscription plans. As I wanted such a device primarily for emergency situations and not for tracking routes via GPS I chose Spot which was way less expensive (even with a subscription). Dessert (German) told me earlier that there is cheap insurance to avoid rescue costs which I took as well in the end.  

Back at Hiker Heaven, I spent the afternoon setting up the device and packing my stuff.

Together with Giggles and a bunch of people (maybe 20 in total), we took the shuttle to "downtown Agua Dulce" and walked all the way to the trailhead from there on the road while some others took the shuttle directly there. when we started walking it was close to 20h already and the sun started going down. Once we got to the trailhead, it was time to get out our headlamps and we reached the trail after another 19-minute walk on a dirt road.

I really enjoyed the nighthike. The temperature was perfect for walking (still 25 degrees Celsius) and my feet felt really fresh. Saw quite a few cute mice with some sort of feathered tail hopping across the trail.

Giggles fell behind a fell behind and while I was waiting I saw that a few hikers had already set up their tents close by. Once Giggles arrived she said that she felt a bit tired and preferred to set up camp right there as there was quite a big open space. I would have walked a couple of miles more as I felt really good but decided to join for the good company.

This was to be my first night cowboy camping and it was an amazing experience. The sky was packed with stars and around us, nature seemed to be getting awake with so many birds, cigars, and other animals starting a big concert. The ground was soft, dry, and warm and I fell asleep pretty fast. Woke up a few times to marvel again at the sky and the awakened wildlife around us.

DAY 34 (June 3)
To Casa de Luna/The Andersons

Giggles decided suddenly to return to recover missed miles between the Agua Dulce grocery store and the small kiosk/convenience store

Hiked till 11.30 and could bear with heat surprisingly well. found shade below a bigger bush which slowly disappeared so I decided to walk 3 more miles at 2 pm to get to a shaded campground. Met Pickles there, took a nap, and continued hiking at around 4h30/5 pm with only half a liter of water left and still 6 miles to go.

Mentally exhausting.

Arrived very thirsty at the ranger station around 19h where I took 2 liters of water and drank 1 right away. Some people would camp there close to the ranger station and I was tempted to do so too but decided to continue although the sun was going down already. With my headlamp on I walked down the road following indications from a Dutch guy to the supermarket in Green Valley. Once there I saw some hikers who could tell me the way to Casa de Luna.

There were quite a few people (mainly the crowd that had headed out of hiker heaven the day before) and luckily there were still enough leftovers from Teri Anderson's famous taco salad.

DAY 35 (June 4)
Zero day at Casa de Luna
0 Miles

Laundry, relaxing on the sofas & taking a shower. Child atmosphere smarmy hikers left around noon for some restaurant further up on trail in order to hike out later from there and save some of the road walking due to the closure.

I initially had planned to hike out late afternoon but decided otherwise as I did not want to walk the road alone at night. Giggles arrived sometime in the afternoon and hung out too but took a chance to get a ride to the Ranger Station to camp there and be closer to the trail around 8 pm.

DAY 36 (June 5)
To Upper Shake CG (Mile 493.4)

Detour around powerhouse closure. Got up at 4 am. Started walking at 5 am

Walked back to the ranger station to pick up another liter of water. Met Giggles who was about to start breakfast and had a coffee with her. We started walking on the road for about 2 miles and then turned to Lake Elisabeth Rd. Around 9.30 and after roughly 6-8 miles we arrived at the Rock Inn a restaurant. Despite the hour, we decided to have breakfast (unfortunately would be hotter once we had finished).

Interestingly, we passed by a place where apparently ostrich races would take place. We took a quick look and although we stayed quite a bit away from the fence, two ostriches approached rapidly and made some weird movements in front of us.

Around lunchtime, we decided to take a nap below a shaded tree which looked like a perfect place to have a siesta: with branches reaching almost to the bottom providing shade all around and protecting from views from outside.

DAY 37 (June 6)
To Tentsite Mile 510.9

Giggles left early that day as her bladder had leaked that night and she wanted to get to the next water asap.

I felt a bit tired of hiking that day and also a bit homesick. Plus the were a lot of annoying flies driving me nuts.

Long lunch break in the grass from 1.30 to 4.30 pm close by a water cistern. 

Late afternoon I passed by the cosy horse trail CG but decided to walk a bit further until 7 pm. I finally set up my tent at a small tent site by a dry spring. My feet were hurting: one with a blister, the other one's shin muscle tense which hurts especially downhill. Was very hot that night but impossible to let the tent open as a lot of bugs/flies around. Slept very well despite the heat.

DAY 38 (June 7)
Wandering the Aquaduct 
To Hikertown/Highway 138 (morning) / To approx. Mile 527 (night)

The alarm went off at 4.20 am but I felt cosy in my tent so I stayed a bit more. Had breakfast after cleaning and taping the new skin of my blister and discovered that cold coffee with milk powder is delicious too … at least when on trail and when it is warm already in the morning. Too lazy to get out (and clean) the stove again, just wanted to get going while still having my beloved coffee :)

Finally took off at 6.20 am. The walk to Hikertown was quite easy, with no big ups and downs, no stones, just flat ground, arrived there around 9.30. A bit of a bizarre place but cool at the same time. Especially as I did not see anyone in the first place. The whole scenery looked like a town in a cowboy movie where it’s hot and everyone hangs out in the bar. Really bizarre!

Giggles and Legs had spent the night there camping. Good finds when checking hiker boxes. Needed to stock up a bit as I had eaten more than expected the last few days since picking up my box in Acton. Especially running out of snacks/bars and tortillas/bread for lunch (and wet wipes!)

Had a chat with people already there and when Bob, the owner, showed up had a ride to the small shop/bar about 4 miles away. Got a burger and my groceries and hung out in the airconditioned room with Pritica, Neon, Hawaii, and another hiker couple.

After going back to Hikertown did laundry, showered, and tried to relax despite the heat. I was not tired enough to sleep though (or afraid that I was getting even more tired when sleeping).

People started out hiking at 6 pm and with Giggles we left at 7 pm. The temperature and air were perfect for walking and it was a great feeling walking along the aqueduct with open water.

The trail made a turn and then ran parallel to the "old" closed aqueduct pipeline. When we walked alongside some properties I recalled that I had read some hiker's comment somewhere that there may be stray dogs in that area. Shortly after mentioning that to Giggles some dogs came running from the property we were just passing by. Luckily there was a fence so not much of a worry. Once we continued they suddenly appeared again and the small dog could pass through a hole below the fence. He was barking at us and almost seemed more scared of us than we were of him. Shortly after that though the bigger dog managed to get through the fence which scared the both of us quite a bit. Luckily he did not come down to the road and just ran alongside the property.

Once it got dark we continued hiking without headlamps for quite a bit as it was not that dark despite the new moon. At around 10 pm My feet started to get sore and I just did not feel like walking anymore. I was looking for some spot to pitch my tent and finally set it up behind some bushes. Giggles decided to take a break and a quick nap but still wanted to continue. My tent held up perfectly against the wind and with the help of my earplugs, I eventually fell asleep despite the still prevailing warmth.

DAY 39 (June 8): Under the bridge
To Tylerhorse Canyon

Took Ibuprofen for pain in my lower shin bone that had already started the night before.

I had a slight pain all the way to Cottonwood Creek & Faucet (approximately 7 miles away from where I had camped) but nothing that would keep me from walking. Also, the sunrise and morning were stunning so I did not pay too much attention to it. The way to the faucet took a bit longer than expected (either due to me taking too many photos or due to walking slower). When I got there the only people left there was the young couple I had met at Hikertown before. They were filling up water and left shortly after (heading to Tylerhorse as well).

I filled up my bottles, had a snack and when I was about to leave Buttonizer and Tortoise arrived. We briefly talked and they headed down to a shady spot below the bridge. I crossed the latter and realized that the pain had gotten worse and that I would not be able to make the 7 Miles to the next water in that state; not in a reasonable time or not at all. I turned around and joined the two others below the bridge. Tortoise (a former triathlon runner) gave some good tips on how to deal with it (ibuprofen, massage, ice, and most importantly rest) and before leaving gave me some of their Ibuprofen tablets (I thankfully took them although as a reserve but had already taken the maximum dose of 600mg that morning).

The thought that I had to spend my whole afternoon below the bridge, unable to join the others at the next water spot where we planned to wait out the heat left me a bit disappointed at first. I went up to the faucet again, grabbed and filled a water container, headed down to the shade again, and started wrapping a wet towel around my foot to let it then rest on my backpack.

Not long after that a hiker arrived and bit by bit the space under the bridge filled up with some 15 people who had either hiked out from Hikertown at night or had camped somewhere in between. I met some hikers I had seen somewhere before and finally had some good company.

To our surprise, a guy arrived with sodas, fruit, and burritos! Trail magic!

After this little feast, everyone tried to take a nap. Not easy though with the heavy winds that suddenly started blowing, swirling gravel all around. I kept on switching between wrapping a cold towel around my foot and massaging it in the hope that it to get better and to be able to hike out late afternoon to Tylerhorse Canyon campground.

Some hikers started heading out as early as 3.30 pm (understandably as it got uncomfortable with all the wind and sand) but I felt it was way too hot still. I finally left at 5.30 anxious about how my foot would feel. It was not pain-free but ok to walk. Unfortunately, I accidentally got off trail shortly after leaving. I only realized it when I suddenly saw a footpath going up a hill wondering where it would lead too. Apparently, I was not the only one missing a turn. Once back on track walking became very exhausting as the trail basically crossed the wind farm. Heavy winds from ahead almost made it impossible to walk; at least it did not feel like moving forward.

At some point, two girls that I knew from hanging out under the bridge passed me and suddenly I was wondering why I did not use my tracking poles to support my foot! Instantly had the feeling walking became easier, not only for the support but also as it gave some kind of a rhythm to my walk.

DAY 40 (June 9)
To Tehachapi
17 miles

Woke up a few times at night and was still tired in the morning. Could not figure out a comfortable position with my leg on top of my backpack. Always felt like sleeping on the side but refrained from doing so in the hope that putting my leg up would help reduce my ankle's swelling.

Most people had already left camp, just saw Allegra arriving and filling up water by the spring. Once I started walking I felt it was still better than the day before. Also, it was a lot of uphill in the morning which is easier on the ankle than downhill.

Took a short break after the first major ascent and Benchy caught up. We walked together and stopped for a longer lunch break around 11.30 and Allegra joint for a while shortly after.

I walked the remaining 8 miles alone (Benchy left a bit earlier) in 3.5 hours which is not too bad taking into account my foot issue. When reaching the highway there suddenly was Legend (a "famous" trail angel) distributing Oreo cookies to everyone arriving. Together with Benchy and Bourbon, I hopped into a young lady’s car who gave us a ride to Tehachapi.

I checked in at the Santa Fe Motel where - after taking a shower - I rested my foot on a big bag of ice on the bed.

Tehachapi to Walker Pass

DAY 44 (June 14) | Crazy winds
Highway 58/Camden Road to Tentsite Mile 572.9
7.7 miles

I am determined to hike out with Matthew “Mixed Rice” today! After yesterday’s 8-mile-test-hike I think I can give it a try. Sitting around will not help me to find out.

We decided to take it slow though with a decent breakfast at the bakery while both doing some emailing and other “errands” on the Internet.  

At 3.45 pm we finally took the bus to Highway 58/Camden Road. The trail followed the highway for quite a bit until started heading up a mountain range (we would have to climb 3.000 feet that day). It was already windy when we were at the bottom and became even stronger with every step we moved uphill.

We both held on to our telling poles, literally stemming against the wind in order not to be blown off the mountain. At one turn we both sat down as it became absolutely crazy, however, decided that there was no other way than moving on.

Once we were even further up, the trail led to the other side of the mountain - still windy but less extreme - where we found a relatively protected campsite amid some trees.

DAY 45 (June 15) | This foot is made for walking
To Mile 590
17.1 miles

Took some Ibuprofen in the morning just in case. Walking seemed ok with my foot, especially after the first 2 miles where we entered some kind of valley where it seemed that someone had suddenly switched off the "wind button".

All good until suddenly a part of my pole broke. Damn, I thought I urgently need it as a support! Of course with that in mind, I started stumbling a few times from that point on. Not sure if that was really due to walking with just one pole or if my brain was just panicking. Just before I reached the water source where Mixed Rice was waiting, I came up with the idea to simply extend the length of the broken pole! Why has this thought taken me so long?

At the spring, we learned that there are now 2 reliable water caches within the 40-mile stretch without any water source.

Great news! I had already developed strategies in my head on how to manage this. I decided that 8 liters would be the max. amount I would want to carry (a heavy burden already under normal circumstances left alone with a bad ankle) which meant doing 20 miles a day and most probably some night hiking for it to be sufficient.

So no need for 8 liters at once and 20-mile days. What a relief! Who is that (trail?) angel who heard my prayers and installed those water caches?

After lunch, we decided to check out the campsite within 5 miles but it was completely unprotected from the wind, so no option for tenting. I felt my foot already and thought that the next site in 5 miles would be tough to get to. Luckily, we found a semi-protected spot at a pipe gate after 2 miles and decided to setup camp there.

Day 46 (June 16) | Bye bye wind turbines
To Mile 604
14 miles

It was daylight already when I woke up. Hidden inside my sleeping bag including my head and pillow I literally missed the sunrise. Mixed Rice who was about to prepare his oatmeal said it would be totally fine to leave around 7am-ish so no hurry. I had a cinnamon bagel with Philadelphia cheese and honey I had picked from a hiker box together with a cold coffee (can't bother heating water, it's perfect cold too). Yummy, what a superb breakfast!

When we left at 7.20 it was windy and quite chilly and I was hoping that this was the last time we would see wind turbines. Just about 2 miles later it looked like my wish would be fulfilled: We entered a very nice forest area.

The ground was super soft and within no time we had done 10 miles. We decided to have lunch before the next water source in 3 miles and found a cozy and peaceful spot in the grass between the trees.

After lunch the water we had left was scarce, so we headed with big steps to Robin Bird Spring, however not without taking the obligatory photo when passing mile 600 of course.

Once there we heard new rumors: apparently up to 300 hikers are currently piling up in Kennedy Meadows waiting for the snow to melt. Some sort of a refugee camp with a waiting list for taking a shower of up to 2 days and overflowing toilets. Not very exciting prospects!

We reviewed options of taking a break in some town somewhat on the way before and Ed mentioned Ridgecrest. It is quite a bit off trail (37 miles?) but there is a bus from Walker Pass and it systems to have affordable accommodation and good shopping options (Walmart) compared to other mountain towns.  

Continued for some 2 miles and found a cozy spot (no wind and soft ground) in the woods at mile 603.9.

DAY 47 (June 17) | Lazy afternoon
To water cache at Kelso Road at 615.9
12 miles 

Yesterday at the spring, Peanuts mentioned a heat wave coming with temperatures rising slowly up to 106F/45C until Monday. The good news: hikers in Kennedy Meadows will start moving as snow melts, the bad news: This heat will hit us just when we have to pass the upcoming stretch with very little water (42 miles not taking into account water caches).

The campsite was so cosy and after the news about KM we were not in a hurry at all, so we had a long sleep and breakfast and did not leave camp before 8.30.

Landers Meadow Spring, a beautiful area with many trees, grass, and shade was only 5 miles away. “Bavarian”, a German section hiker, was already there and quite down when he learned that resupply options at KM are very limited. We talked about different other options but he still seemed not happy. I realized at that point being on the trail for so long, not many things can puzzle me anymore really. In the end “the trail provides” and everything works out somehow.

We had lunch and spent the whole afternoon there. Carey, a local trail angel, arrived providing us with fruit (melon and cherries, yummy), cookies, and wet wipes. We talked for quite a while about how it is living up here in the mountains and that she would like to have some kind of hiker heaven up here before she headed off on her ATV.

We left the spring at 6 pm and walked another 7 miles to the water cache at Kelso Road where we filled up water - I decided that 6 liters must be enough for the upcoming 36-mile stretch - and set up camp directly there.

DAY 48 (June 18) | The Joshua Tree
To campsite mile 635
18 miles

My alarm was set to 4 am as we wanted to be on trail by 5 am to be able to make 10 miles by 10 am before another large lunch break/siesta to avoid the heat. The forecast had predicted some crispy 91F/33F.  

I was happy to start walking into the sunrise but soon got into a slightly bad mood as there was a slight climb and my body felt somewhat tired. Seemed as if the engine was not reaching momentum and every step was an effort in itself. At some point realized though that my foot does not hurt anymore even without painkillers and I suddenly felt very happy and grateful. Lunch and shade under Joshua tree.

It was still 5 miles to a possible water cache and as always it took me a while to get going after lunch. The first stretch was quite a bit uphill, very sandy, and without shade, in short, a bit exhausting.

I was hoping/praying that there would be water at the cache to have some extra water for cooking dinner and I also dreamed about a little trail magic although this had already happened the day before. I had run out of energy bars so worth chocolate would be great. When I finally arrived at Bird Spring, I saw Mixed Rice already kneeling in front of a box: it was full of Snickers bars, peanut butter, tortillas, and - hard to believe: Nutella!! OMG, my dreams had come true!

After devouring some of these treats and filling up on water, we literally ran up the hill. Despite an elevation gain of 1500 feet, we reached the campsite at the top (5 miles) by 9.30 pm.

DAY 49 (June 19) | Clouds
To Walker Pass CG
13 miles

We started walking at 5 am with a beautiful sunrise. I had put on my wind jacket but took it off after 20 minutes as the air was warm already. It would be mostly downhill or flat today and surprisingly the trail descended into a forest-like area with lots of shade and soft ground to walk on for at least 5 miles before turning into a dryer area again. By 10 am it was hot already and stopped for a break below some trees.

When I wake up from a little map after lunch, quite a few clouds are covering the sky. I discuss with Mixed Rice whether I should continue walking: in the end, it will be only 6 miles to the campground at Walker Pass and I would prefer hanging out there instead of here.

It is an easy walk with beautiful views. Once we get to the campground, we met Lighter Bomb, 5 o’clock, and two Mexican girls there. Shortly after Giggles and GDub arrive too coming back from a shopping trip to Lake Isabella. They all would head out shortly while both Mixed Rice and I decided to camp here.

DAY 50 (June 20) | New shoes
0 miles

Walker Pass to Kennedy Meadows

Day 51 | June 21 | Into the Night
Tentsite Mile 656
4 Miles

DAY 52 | June 22 |  Bored
To Tentsite Mile 676
19.9 miles

Today was the first time I was listening to music while hiking. Loved it! The time just flew by.

I set up camp by myself about 4 miles before the next water source. The tent site mentioned on Guthocks was quite windy, but I managed to find a cozy, sheltered spot.

 

Day 53 | June 23
To South Fork Kern River (M698)
22.1 miles

Alarm at 4 a.m. but could not get up. Very tired still, woke up various times; either because of the wind or fantasizing about a bear stealing food.

Walked out of camp at 6.30 and once I arrived at the spring in 5 miles at 8 am everybody there had gone. It was quite warm already when I started a quite steep ascent. I tried to keep a steady pace while listening to the sound of Depeche Mode’s 101 album I had not listened to for ages.

I my motivation to get up there was to have lunch once I got to past the top. Once I was there though there suddenly was no shady spot anymore! I continued to walk until 1 pm in the heat until I came to a road crossing where I climbed up to a shady tree to have a tortilla sandwich and a big nap.

At 4 pm I walked on and met Danila, Jörg on the way with whom I camped by the Kern River eventually. KM was still 5 miles away and the river was a cozy spot to spend the night.

DAY 54 | June 24 : Hello Kennedy Meadows

Arrived at the Kennedy Meadows general store at 9 am where everyone arriving is greeted by all hikers there with a big applause.

The store was just about to open and quite a few people were already hanging around on the terrace.

Once the store opened I got some fresh fruit and coffee. I met Neon again who was stuck at KM with the same ankle/shin problem I had at Tehachapi.

Kennedy Meadows to Lone Pine

DAY 56 (June 25): Pack Reorganization
To mile 706 South Kern River
5 miles

Had a very good sleep last night. Woke up at six and after going to the restrooms had an interesting chat with Happy Hour who was preparing coffee before heading out. He had been working for some biotec companies in the past and is now writing articles on outdoors and hiking for an online magazine called  “trail groove”.

Spend the rest of the morning going through my stuff to figure out what items to get rid of by dumping them into my bounce box.

The afternoon passed by very fast by chatting with people, checking food, and finally trying to fit all my stuff including the bear can into my pack. Although I was initially worried it worked quite well. Pack was just a bit taller than usual.

Had a burger before leaving as I was just too lazy to cook something and especially to reopen the bear can and repack.

Left Kennedy Meadows at 6.15 p.m. and set up camp with Mario “Mr. Clean and Brian “Toasty” by the Kern River at 8.30 p.m.

DAY 57 (June 27)
To Tentsite Mile 719
17 miles

DAY 58  (June 28)
To Tentsite Mile 736
15 miles

Walked to the next water source in the morning and had a longer break as some more hikers were hanging out there. One of our burning questions: When did the movie "The Goonies" come out?

Bought a pair of long Injinji socks from GDub.

Food left over for 3-4 days but need to go into Lone Pine to get food box as Forester Pass and Mt Whitney coming up. Hard to guess daily mileage with upcoming elevations.

Lunched with a couple I had met before and got Lebanese Couscous from them.

Steep ascent that I easily tackled with good music.

Camped with Toastie, Mr. Clean and PitPot on top at a large open space. Very quiet. Slept well. 

Lone Pine to Vermilion Valley Resort

DAY 59 | June 29
To Trail Pass (Mile 745)
3 miles

Slept very well in motel room and felt quite fresh in the morning. My fotos and videos were all uploaded over night, so plenty of space for new pictures for nature's beauty within the upcoming stretch.

After a yummy bagel with Nutella I headed to the outfitter to leave my “old” boots in the hiker box and continued to the supermarket to top up my food with peanut butter and more tortillas which I could hardly squeeze into my bear can. Cosmetics and beverage powders such a coffee and lemonade had to stay outside. I tried to put everything inside pack but in the end had difficulties to close it. Never had it been so full! Did not really understand because everything fit when I had hiked in.

Mario proposed to do a shakedown so we went to Mc Donalds’ where there was WiFi, food, air-conditioning and space. In the end I shipped the following items ahead to Mammoth:

• 3 pairs of short infinite socks not compatible with my new boots

• Pack rain cover

• Opinel knife (replaced by a very small Swiss knife I had found)

• Knee compression sleeves used after my injury

• Pinzette

• Detergent for clothes

• Small towel 

Was not so easy to get a hitch back up to Horseshoe Meadows but made it. Jake and Caveman camped by the meadows while Mario and I walked up the 1.8 miles to the good old trail and after a short walk we set up our tents at Trail Pass.

DAY 60 | June 30: Sierra! Finally!
To campsite at Junction PCT/Mt Whitney
21 miles

First stop at Chicken Spring Lake after a 5-mile walk. What a peaceful scenery! We had a second breakfast there and enjoyed once again that we had finally arrived in the Sierra.

There are now more hikers on the trail with the John Muir trail coming up and I had a chat with 81-year-old hiker who still seemed very fit for his age just coming back from a four-day hike with some interesting stories to tell about his past hikes.

 Around lunch time met a German JMT hiker who I talked to and walked with for quite a while.

Arrived at camp at Junction PCT/Whitney at 9 pm with Grizzly, couldn't find others in the dark, and set up my tent somewhere I found a flat spot.

DAY 61 (July 1) | Stairway to Heaven
Day hike to the top of Mt Whitney
16 miles

Found Jenn, Mario and Andrew on the other side of the river. With a small backpack carrying only water, lunch and my jacket, we walked up the Whitney Spirit Trail passing by beautiful Lake Timberlake and Guitar Lake.

It was an easy walk until the point where the steep switchbacks started. Jennifer had recommended not to take trekking poles and I was happy to have followed her advice; they would not have been very useful with the stoney ground. After the switchbacks, the “trail” was less step but required some climbing with bigger rocks being in the way.

Along the way, I was wondering if it was worth all this physical pain but once reached the top was happy to have made it. The views walking up were rewarding already and once at the top could also look down to Lone Pine on the other side.

We had lunch and enjoyed the sun. I had to sneeze all the time though, it seemed I had somehow caught a cold. We left after some 1.5 hours.

The way down was quite easy and quick up to Guitar Lake where there were lots of tents from JMT hikers. I saw again Florian who was just preparing his dinner and had a quick break with 2Pack and Undercut whom I had not seen since Hiker Heaven.   

Back at the campsite I prepared a quick dinner with Sunny D who had put up his tent close to mine before finally crawling dead tired into my sleeping bag.

DAY 62 | July 2: Lovely Day
Tyndall Creek Tentsite (Mile 774)
8 miles

I had decided already last night to take it easy this morning and just walk the 10 miles to the base of Forester Pass today instead of crossing it like the others had planned.

I slept longer than usual and only managed to crawl out of my tent at 9 a.m. I had along breakfast and watched a marmot and chipmunk circling around me most probably in the hope of finding some good leftovers. Very funny! Fully enjoyed these moments.

I finally left camp at around 11 a.m. My pack felt a bit heavy in the beginning (maybe because of the slack packing the day before?) but after a while got used to it again and had a good walk including various river crossings.

I had to stop several times to marvel at the breathtaking scenery and was very happy to walk alone that day at my own pace instead of rushing by.

Once I reached Bighorn Plateau I had to sit down and watch; the lake, the mountains, the sun, the clouds, marmots scurrying through the meadow, and no other human around. I would say one of the most beautiful and rewarding moments of the entire trail so far!

DAY 63 | June 3: Forrester Pass 13,152ft/4.008m
To Bullfrog Lake Junction (Mile 788)
13.8 miles

Did I say yesterday was the best day of the trail so far? Hmm, maybe it was today? 

I had a really good sleep last night so I did not even hear when the alarm went off at 5.30. The sun had not reached the valley yet and it was still quite chilly outside so I decided to have breakfast in bed.

My cold was still bothering me so I took partly some medicine to prevent it from running all day.

After packing my stuff, I had a quick chat with Caveman and then headed out towards Forester Pass. It was a step climb up the switchbacks partly covered with snow so that it was hard to see where the trail was at some point. I felt it was an easier walk though than up Whitney the other day.

Up there the views are breathtaking towards the mountains and crystal clear lakes. Further down I meet Marie and when walked by a beautiful Lake I suggested to stop and dip our feet into the water. There were dozens of frogs around the lake all jumping when we pass by. Marie even took a quick swim. Although I was tempted too, I preferred to just dip my feet in, worried that my cold would even get worse. At some point, a deer shows up at the other side of the lake to drink and graze. The whole scene feels so unreal, just like we were inside a film or painting.

After that refreshing break, my feet still felt good and I continued walking until 7.30 pm to Bullfrog Lake resisting an invitation of the guys I had met the day before to hang out by the campfire they were about to set up. There was a steep ascent before the lake and I was extremely satisfied (and hungry!) when I finally arrived at the Tentsite.

The final highlight of the day: When I had dinner a deer passed by at a very short distance. Wow!

DAY 64 (June 4): Glenn Pass 11,947ft/3.651m
To Tentsite Mile 802.7
14.2 miles.

Met Waffles from Belgium on top of Glenn Pass. We had met at some water source in the desert a couple of weeks ago.

My thighs are sore when walking down. Lunch and rest at Rae Lakes.

Easy walk downhill for several miles after the lakes but steep uphill for 2.5 miles before the tentsite.

Various river crossings. I love my Salomon boots!

Mosquitos are everywhere and so annoying that I decide to eat inside my tent.

DAY 65 (June 5): Pinchot Pass 12,106ft/3.689m
To Mile 815
12.9 miles

I wake up at 4.45. Hungry. My food is inside my bear can which is at least 100 meters away from my tent. I do some stretching exercises inside my sleeping bag (as far as possible) and then I try to sleep a bit more until daylight arrives.

Lunch with Waffles, Evan, and Amid on a giant rock down by one of the lakes. We agree to meet at the last tent site before Mather Pass to be able to walk up there the next morning. It's just 7 miles from our lunch break spot but I realize that my legs are already a bit tired. I put on some music though for the last steady but not too steep uphill and reach a good pace again.

We all arrive between 5 - 6 pm at the tent site which is one of the most beautiful ones I have been on the trail due to its surrounding scenery: a lake, snow, mountains, rocks & sun.

It was another beautiful day and I am once again very happy and thankful that I gave myself the opportunity experience all this.

DAY 66 (June 6): Mather Pass 12,093ft/3.685m
To Tentsite Mile 833 approx.
18 miles

The sun is not out yet when I wake up and I guess it's around 5 am. Looking at my phone I realize it's only 2.30 am. I feel really awake and not like sleeping anymore but it's still in the middle of the night. It is quite cold which does not really make it easier to fall asleep again. Especially my butt is cold which is most probably because I sleep at the side which makes all down at this  “elevation” downwards. I decide to wrap my fleece around my hip to solve the problem and it instantly feels warmer. At one point, I eventually fall asleep again. What a joyful moment when the first ray of light hits my tent. Time for breakfast.

I get out to get my bear can and realize that the thin water streams running down to the lake are frozen. My tent also is frozen from the outside and I crawl inside my sleeping bag again to have breakfast there. 

Nevertheless, a beautiful morning as we climb the 4 miles up to the pass.

Sliding down on the other side turns out to be a bad idea as the ice is still hard at this time of the morning. It's a bumpy ride during which I loose one of my water bottles and scratch my left thumb and hand so that it slightly bleeds. Well, not a really good idea but definitely an experience.

I use our lunch break in the woods on the way down the mountain to get my tent and sleeping bag out again to let them dry. While the others leave early I take a nap and start walking again at 2 pm. Still 10 miles to go to our designated camp spot.

Several river crossings during the afternoon and I am happy to have my Salomon GoreTex boots. I did not get wet feet a single time! 

DAY 67 (June 7): Muir Pass 11,969ft/3.648m
To Tentsite Mile 847 by Colby Meadow
15.3 miles

Gradual but long ascent. Have to cross a lot of snowfields. The trail is hardly visible sometimes.

Views from the top are beautiful as always. Time for my favorite yogi pose!

Amid loses her phone while having lunch by a lake: it slides out of the side pocket of her backpack into a gap in that giant rock we are sitting on. We try various things to get it out but impossible.

Early afternoon I fall just before crossing a river. It happens so fast that I do not know how exactly it happened: most probably I slipped when stepping on a wet rock, then used my pole to support me but it broke and I landed with my chin on a big rock. I instantly touch my chin - I expect to feel flesh when I touch it due to an injury at the same spot when I was a kid but none of that - but apart from a few scratches and pain, nothing seems to be broken. One of my poles finally breaks completely. I walk very slowly all afternoon, feeling very tired and weak.

I get to a beautiful meadow with Waffles late afternoon where various deer are relaxing. Looks so serene and untouched that we decide to camp there and continue to Evolution Meadow in 2 miles tomorrow.

DAY 68 (June 8)
To mile 865 approx.

Beautiful scenery again with Sally Keyes and Heart Lakes just before Selden Pass. All seems so perfect that I have the feeling to walk through a postcard.

We stealth camp just before Selden Pass on one of the rare flat and non-humid spots. Despite the proximity to the water and the elevation, I sleep very well that night. Is it because I ate more that evening or that I crawled into my bag right after dinner before letting cooling out? Or something else?

DAY 69 (June 9) | Selden Pass 10,913ft/3.326m
To Vermilion Valley Resort (Mile 878.8)

 It is an easy ascent to the pass which is just one mile away from where we camped but tons of mosquitos bother us on the way down.

At lunch time I have to say goodbye to Waffles as I want to reach the ferry at 4 pm to Vermilion Valley Resort while she continues to Mammoth. We exchange phone numbers and hope to meet further up on the trail.

Get to where the ferry leaves at 3.30 pm. Other hikers say that the ferry (which actually is a small boat for 6 people including the driver) might not be coming back due to heavy winds.

It turns out that it will be coming back 2 more times taking 5 people each time but then the driver announces that he could not come back a third time due to the wind being too strong and that he will be coming back first hour the next day. No option for me as I am out of food (and dreaming about a proper meal all day already) and similar for Ami. I ask if he can at least take our backpacks and he agrees, so both Ami and I start walking (running?) the 5 miles to the resort around the lake in the hope of making it on time before the restaurant closes. It takes us roughly 2 hours and we arrive on time for a steak and beer. Happy but tired I fall into my “bed” that night.

Vermilion Valley Resort to Mammoth Lakes

DAY 70 (July 10)
Zero-day at VVR

First thing in the morning,  I put on my rain gear and take all my dirty clothes to go and do laundry and take a shower. Once I went to reception to get a token, the lady said that the generator was broken and that there would be no electricity in the bathhouse and thus no laundry or shower today.  

Oh no!! It was all I was looking forward to today! In order to digest my disappointment I had a big pancake and cherry pie for breakfast. Ben whom I met again at the restaurant and who had already arrived 2 days earlier, told me that the generator already had caused problems the day before and that it might work in the afternoon if they managed to fix it.

I hung around a bit organizing food I had found in the hiker box for the 2 days to Mammoth (cliff bars, oatmeal, dried fruit, coffee, backpacker meals, and even German Alnatura muesli) and caught up on my journal before I decided to do some bucket laundry and get myself washed. Just couldn't stand it anymore and talking to the guy who was trying to repair the generator he said that it did not look good (it would work very late in the afternoon again though with the help of a hiker).

A chilled afternoon with lots of guys playing the guitar. Talking to others I found out that there is an alternative trail from here that would join the PCT after Silver Pass. Something to take into consideration …

DAY 71 (July 11)
To lake right before Goodale Pass Junction (Mile 886)

DAY 72 (July 12)
To Reds Meadows Resort
20 miles

 

DAY 73/74 (June 13/14)
0 miles

Zero-day in Mammoth Lakes and back to Reds Meadows.

Mammoth Lakes to Tuolumne Meadows

DAY 75 (July 15)
To Tentsite Mile 920
13.5 miles

Spent some time catching up on emails using the store's WiFi and chatted with fellow hikers passing through the camp. I didn't hit the trail until around 11 a.m.

During the day, the heat became quite intense, making the hike quite challenging.

The trail took me through a forest that, to be honest, wasn't the most exciting, and the relentless mosquitos made it even less enjoyable.

However, I stumbled upon a cozy tent site with some delightful views of a nearby mountain range, which made the day's journey worthwhile.

DAY 76 (July 16)
To mile 936 (Vogelsang Junction)
16 miles

In the morning it was just the birds and me, no one packing, snoring or heading out of camp early. Stayed in my sleeping bag for quite a while although I was awake.

Walking was more interesting and enjoyable than yesterday. My first stop was 1000 Island Lake for a short break, another crystal-clear lake with snow-covered mountains in the background.

I hardly noticed Island Pass which I passed shortly after, rather a saddle than a pass.

Lunch break at Donahue Pass (which required some steep climbs and passing some snow but nothing unexpected). Lovely sunshine and beautiful views at the top, perfect place for a little nap.

There were quite a few marmots around and a very curious even tried to get into my pack which was leaning against a rock just 0.5 metres away from me. 

Once I was down walked through a meadow. I love walking through Meadows late afternoon. Felt like I was the only one; all so peaceful and dipped into a nice soft light.

At some point, I put down my backpack to drink and suddenly saw a female deer very close. About 5 metres away. It continued grazing and slowly stepped further away without really looking at me. After staring for a while I turned around to put my pack back on when I saw a stag sitting at the other side of the river just in front of me! It seemed young still but had a beautiful antler already. It was lying there, looking at me and munching something, with no intention to move at all.

Camped a bit later by a river at the end of the meadow about 5 miles from Tuolumne Meadows.

DAY 77 (July 17)
To Tuolumne Meadows
P.O5 miles

I should have known that camping beside a river results in being cold in a damp sleeping bag in the morning. I had breakfast inside my tent and then packed as fast as possible to start moving. It was a nice morning despite the cold; the meadow was still covered with frost.

It took me 2.5 hours to walk the 5 miles to Tuolumne Meadows. I had to stop quite a few times to look at all the birds and chipmunks hopping around on the trail.

The small store and restaurant were busy as it was a Sunday. Meet Bubble Boy who successfully exchanged his broken Osprey pack for a brand-new one Mammoth.

After talking to a PCT hiker who had been to Yosemite Valley and some weekend hikers, I decided to do a day trip to the valley tomorrow.

DAY 78 (July 18)
Day trip to Yosemite Valley
0 miles

Had a quick breakfast before heading to the store to forward my box to South Lake Tahoe. The guy at the post office said that they were just about to return the box and that it would be better to call in case of delay. Guess it would be a good idea to do that with my box (last one) at Sierra City. If only I had reception!

Took the bus at 10h15 to the valley which was a 1h45 ride. There were a lot of cars and people already once the bus arrived in the valley but still OK. I was so hungry again that I first had to go to the diner to get something to eat. All quite pricey but found an affordable Danish. Regular boring sandwiches were 6.50 dollars, so real tourist prices. 

Took the shuttle to the waterfalls from where there is also a beautiful view of the Half Dome. Taking the second shuttle passing El Capitan was not as good as expected as there was not such a good view from the bus and I did not have time to get off the bus really. Should have rather walked from the lodge over the swinging bridge and then back to the visitor center which was much closer than it looked on the map. Still a nice trip though to get an overview and definitely worth coming back for some hiking. Walking up to the very top of the waterfall and seeing the water flowing over the edge must be breathtaking.

Coming back to the campground, a German family from Dresden had set up their tent just beside mine. They were on a trip through California and were about to do a short 3-day hike before heading over to San Francisco. We talked for a while and they invited me for a nice (camping) family dinner including dessert. Really nice!

Tuolumne Meadows to Sonora Pass

Meow! I lost my notes for this stretch. Here’s some pictures instead.

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Sonora Pass to South Lake Tahoe

DAY 84 (July 24) | Inspiration
To mile 1031
13.8 Miles

I walk towards the road at 9 a.m. to get a ride back to Sonora Pass. It is Sunday and I would expect some cars with day hikers heading to the trailhead but it is pretty quiet for the first 15 minutes and all cars leaving the campground are heading in the opposite direction.

I get a ride with a friendly family from the Bay area who goes fishing. Arriving at the pass they offer me Gatorade and cookies. While standing there at the pass trying to get ready, another car pulls into the parking lot. It is a dad and his daughter who want to go on a day hike. We talk for at least 30 minutes about the PCT and hiking in general before they put on their hiking shoes and start walking right from the pass.

Hiking feels a bit lonely today as I do not meet any familiar faces on the trail. It almost feels like I am walking in the wrong direction. A hiker coming from the opposite direction feels the same way though; he thinks more people are walking in the same direction as I do, saying that he had seen quite a few PCT-ers today already.

DAY 85 (July 25) | No motivation
To Sherald Lake
18.2 miles

Bad morning, no motivation to walk, thoughts about quitting. The battery of my phone is empty so I have no music, no navigation or mileage to see my progress and there is no people on the trail. Not a good combination :( 

I manage to do 10 miles by 12h30 and meet a nice couple at lunch. Furthermore, my battery is finally charged again, so my GPS is up and running again which significantly improves my mood.

The afternoon goes smoothly and I arrive at Shepard Lake at 7 pm.

I continue to have problems with my tent though: one of the zippers of the inner door (mosquito net) has not been working properly for a couple of weeks already and the second one does not close anymore either. Really annoying now that I am in mosquito country…. argh

Once I have set up my tent 2 section hikers arrive which camp at the other side of the lake.

DAY 86 (July 26)| Big miles
To mile 1070 (Lost Lakes)
20.7 miles

Break with 3 young section hikers who share their treats with me and give me some recommendations for camping and a nice site around Lake Tahoe.

10 miles by lunchtime.

I decided to walk another 3 miles at 6.30 pm; quite some uphill but a beautiful view towards a lake that was not visible from below.

I set up camp by the lake where some families are having a barbecue.

Felt save.

DAY 87 (july 27) | Surprise at Carson Pass
To mile 1087
17 miles

Michael from Reno “Your feet will be grateful although they are getting hot.”

Likely that snow in Washington will come late this year; hasn't been raining since May. usually a few thunderstorms in Sierra too at this time of the year.)

DAY 88 (july 28)
Easy hitch to South Lake Tahoe
3 miles

DAY 89 (July 39)
Zero-day at Karen & John's cabin
0 miles

Emerald Bay and hanging out at the Huckleberry House.

South Lake Tahoe to Sierra City

DAY 90 (July 30) | Aloha hey!
To Fontanillis Lake
17.6 miles

Karen and John do a little morning hike and accompany me to Echo Lake which is really cool.

Meet a group of girls from the Bay Area close to Aloha Lake with whom I have lunch. Christine is very interested in hiking the PCT and we talk for quite a while.

They all go back to Echo Lake while I  continue ahead to Fontanilis Lake where I set up my tent.

DAY 91 (july 31) | The Rattlers are back
To mile 1130
21.4 miles

Saw two rattlesnakes today: one crossing the trail and another one rolled up by a trunk, apparently sunbathing. There are still some beautiful lakes around but it's going to get dryer again soon, so this seems to be their habitat again.

More PCT hikers again! Caveman had just camped a mile further ahead, Ninja Turtle came from the opposite direction slack packing between Truckee and Echo Chalet and Jazzman showed up during lunch at Robinson Lake. 

After taking a short break at a trailhead in the afternoon I felt quite confident to be able to do close to  20 miles today. However, at one point, I felt pain in that same tendon on my right foot again. I continued uphill and it was hardly hurting but I was still a bit worried it would become worse again.

DAY 91 (august 1) | Magic
To Donner Pass
24 miles

I did not sleep really well last night as a deer was walking around where I camped, passing by tent real close a few times. Not sure what it was looking for, I definitely did not camp on some yummy fresh leaves or grass.

There are a few climbs today passing by two ski resorts. There is coverage on top of these mountains and I take the chance to call back home to check how Ramon - my cat who is in the hospital - is doing. They have found out in the meantime that it is pancreatitis what makes him vomit and not eat.

I meet quite a few hikers on trail today including a small group of day hikers with whom I chat for a while. I ask them about the Donner Ski Ranch which is supposed to be very close to Donner Pass and  where I plan to go to for breakfast the next day. 

I push on all the way to Donner Pass in the afternoon and get there by 8 pm. As I hit a side road a motorbike passes me, turns and comes back. It is Ron whom I met in the afternoon telling me that the ranch was in the other direccion and asking where I was heading. Once I mention that I am looking for a place to camp, he offers me to come to his house. Hot shower, good food? It takes 2 seconds to convince me, I jump into the car of his daughter Kaithlin and we head down toTruckee. Once we get to their house we see a bear crossing the street. Kaithlin tells me that it's trash day the next day so he might be checking (although most trash containers are bear proof).  

After a quick shower I have a delicious dinner with the whole family and some friends of theirs. I am very tired after a long day (and some glasses of wine :) but extremely happy once I fall into bed.

DAY 92 (August 2) | Hard to leave Truckee
To Lacey Creek
18.3 miles

After a yummy breakfast, Ron drives me back to Donner Summit. We make a little detour via the center of Truckee which really looks like an interesting town with nice restaurants and bars.

I join two girls doing a section hike by Lacey Creek around 7.30 pm and I am happy to have company.

It is a colder night and I do not sleep really well. I wake up twice although it is quiet, lay awake and do not feel tired at all really

DAY 93 (August 3) | Crunching Miles
To Sierra City
25 miles

Sierra City to Belden

DAY 94 (August 4)
To Tentsite Mile 1199
3.3 miles

I call Wissem to see how Ramon, the cat, is doing. He is back from the hospital and has started eating a little bit, not much but some of his favorite treats. Not sure though if that is enough. In case he does not eat he would need a feeding funnel. I see him via FaceTime video and although he gets painkillers, he looks weak and exhausted. I feel so sorry for him that it makes me cry while sitting on the porch of the general store.

I leave Sierra City with Troubadour and Bubble Boy in the late afternoon to avoid the heat.

There is a bigger climb out of Sierra City but I am happy to be back on trail. The temperature is ideal and it feels a lot less exhausting than expected. It smells like incense on the way up. Is it sandalwood?

DAY 95 (August 5)
To A-Tree Springs, Mile 1217
18.5 miles

I wake up around 5.30am and start walking at 7am.

On top of a ridge, I receive a text message from my mum. Realizing that I have service up there, I call home to see how Ramon is doing. He is eating some treats every day, so at least a little bit.

With Bubble Boy and Troubadour, we set up our tents by a spring and a road. Not a cozy place but a good starting point for tomorrow's ascent. Troubadour is playing some songs on the ukulele while we prepare dinner and a curious dear starts sneaking around the tentsite, not being afraid at all.

DAY 96 (August 6)
To Tentsite Mile 1239
21.8 miles

Slept pretty well and woke up at 5.30. The deer show up again and we stare at each other for a while. Funny situation.

Troubadour is going to zero today. I head out at 7.30 but Bubble Boy catches up shortly after.

After a tough climb late morning, we have lunch. An older gentleman joins us and we admire his super light pack (roughly 4 pounds, feels like a shopping bag). It's all quite expensive stuff though (tent, backpack, and rain poncho from ZPacks). His wife is following him in an RV providing his resupply every 3 days so he does not have to carry much food which is another reason why he can go that light. Great that he is through-hiking at his age though.

We camp by a trailhead at a paved road and I learn how to light a campfire. Nice!

DAY 97 (August 7)
To Tentsite Mile 1258
18.5 miles

I love the mornings on the trail! While I have my coffee, rays of light are slowly making their way through the trees. I haven't slept so well for quite a while, did not even wake up once at night.

10 miles downhill - 8 miles uphill - 5000 ft elevation gain

DAY 98 (August 8)
To Tentsite Mile 1280
22.4 miles

We find a snug little campsite just four miles before reaching Belden. It's a small, sheltered spot with some lovely views. I'm looking forward to catching the sunrise from here tomorrow morning. While I drift off to sleep, the crickets provide a comforting backdrop with their chirping.

DAY 99 (August 9)
11 miles (4+6)
To Myrtle Flat & Tentsite (Mile 1291)

It’ s all downhill into Belden but I am happy that we did not do it the day before when we were tired already. Knowing myself I might have stumbled a few times running down.

We get into Belden just right when the restaurant opens and have a yummy breakfast.

I call Wissem and see a Ramon that looks like the one I know so I am relieved that he is doing better again. Still has to get antibiotics but is eating his normal food again.

With Bubble Boy, we hitch to a campsite that has a little post office just 1.5 miles further up the road. He has a resupply box there. Get some food from Bubble Boy and buy the rest in the small store. A bit pricey but I prefer to buy here instead of going into Chester (in approx. 45 miles), going off trail and losing time. I want to get to halfway PCT and then to the Oregon border asap!

Belden to Old Station

DAY 100 (August 10) | Oh deer!
To Little Cup Spring

We were both tired in the morning as deer was bothering us all night sneaking around our tents. And then a steep ascent for another 8 miles.

Talked to a Swiss Austrian going southbound from Ashland during lunch break who recommended Drakesbad Ranch (free shower with towels, shampoo, and everything) as well as Callhan’s Lodge in Oregon (pasta buffet for 15 dollars, all-you-can-eat).

DAY 101 (August 11)
To North Fork Feather River
25 miles (plus 1.4 to a water source)

Quiet night. Skootscher said a deer had dragged one of her trekking poles along the trail and licked off the sweat from Ninjas Turtles shirt.

Bubble Boy got stung by two wasps during lunch break at a water source. Met Mina and Soo at camp by the river.

DAY 102 (August 12)
To Swamp Lake
21.1 miles

Running to Drakesbad Guest Ranch to find out that hiker lunch is not before 1.30 pm. We eat our own food and head out again around 3 p.m.

We suddenly meet Forget-me-not and Pickles on trail.

Late afternoon is really flat. I am listening to music and so absorbed in my thoughts until I suddenly realize that my feet are walking in autopilot mode while my head is thinking something completely different.

There are a thousand tiny frogs at the lake where we stop to camp. They seem to live in little holes in the ground and jump around while we cross to the other side. There are so many that I am almost afraid to step on some of them.

DAY 103 (August 13)
To Old Station

Old Station to Castella

DAY 104 (August 14) | First time 30 miles!
To Crystal Lake
31 miles

Hat Rim 20-mile stretch without water. 18 miles done by noon.

Local trail angel showed up at water cache with some homegrown peaches and delicious bacon-cheddar-bread.

First sights of Mount Shasta

Dry but beautiful landscape finally something different than always the same forest

With Sue and Bubble Boy camped at Crystal Lake just 2 milles from Burney Guest Ranch.

DAY 105 (August 15)
Nero day at barney mountain guest ranch
1.5 miles

DAY 106 (August 16) | Burney Falls
To Tentsite Mile 1425
18 miles

Got up early and headed out of the ranch at 5.20 am. Got to a campground close to the falls where I met Bubble Boy and his friends.

Went down to Falls with Fancy Pants. Hanging around at falls during the day with Fancy Pants and Backout was way too hot to walk (99 degrees Fahrenheit). Pickles and Forget-me-not showed up again too.

Headed out again at 5.30 pm with Backout. We had dinner by the creek at 7 p.m. There were some wasps around and I thought I better put my empty tuna pouch into my trash bag. While doing that I suddenly felt a pain in one of my fingers and it turned out that a wasp had just stung me.

We continued walking into the night and reached camp at 22h completely soaked. Still quite warm, guess roughly 28 degrees Celsius.

DAY 107 (August 17) | Hot, Hot, Hot
Meet giggles again. Long lunch break.

DAY 108 (August 18)
To Fitzhugh Gulch (Creek)
25.9 miles

Woke up early and couldn't sleep anymore. Started walking at 5 am.

Met Giggles 5 miles further up the trail having breakfast in her sleeping bag. Camped by a short road but south a garr view of Mount Shasta.

Had breakfast by a creek at around 9.30 and had walked 10 miles by them already. By 2.30 pm I had already walked 20 miles! Will this be another 30-mile day?

Crossed quite a few southbound thru-hikers that had started in Canada. One of them (with a small pack) had started on July 1. He confirmed that Oregon is quite flat with one major ascent to Crater Lake which seems to be very gradual though.

 Arrived at 6 pm at a creek and decided to set up camp there. Did  25 miles today which was my objective. This leaves 27 miles to Castella tomorrow.

DAY 109 (August 19)
Castella State Park Campground
27 miles  

My alarm was set to 4.30 but I was way too tired and snoozed a bit before packing and finally starting to walk at 6 pm.

Decided to do 3 sets of 9 miles to tackle the 27 miles to Castella which worked quite well. There was some climb during the day and I was a bit short on water as I had overlooked a bigger stretch without a water source but I managed to “stretch” the water I had and the climb was compensated by some great views of Mount Shasta.

When I finally rolled into camp at the State Parc I could not believe my eyes: I saw a face that looked familiar and it was Caveman indeed. What a surprise! Hadn't seen him since Sierra City and he had skipped a few miles in the meantime. I felt fired after dinner but could not end the day without some (free!) hot showers. Amazing feeling after a super hot and sweaty day.

Castella to Etna

DAY 110 (August 20)
To Disappearing Creek & Tentsite 
9 miles 

Went to Amirati's Market (which is basically) a little shop in the gas station to pick up my (last!) resupply box, get some coffee and a fresh sandwich.

Hung out there in the shade with Zeth, Old School, Gazelle, and Bubble Boy. Caveman left quite early to get back on trail.

Left with Bubble Boy and Smile to Fleming trail which leads to the PCT.

DAY 111 (August 21)
To Deadfall Lakes
25.1 miles 

I started early at 5 pm to tackle an ascent which was exposed before the heat of the day would start. Saw a bear that was running away into some bushes a bit further down the hill. Only noticed it as it was making quite some noise. Not very discreet these bears ;)

A group of day hikers we were chatting with gave us melon, cucumber, and a sandwich. Sweet!

Our tent site after the targeted 25 miles was at a beautiful lake with lots of cozy grass to camp on.

It's been a long time since I slept so well without waking up at night. Very cozy and peaceful.

DAY 112 (August 12)
To mile 1559
25 miles 

Go through options about how to continue all morning. Northern California seems to last forever ambidextrous walking has become really boring. I divide the day into 3 sections of 8 or 9 miles after which I take a break and eat something so what I am actually looking forward to is a meal :)

Passed 2,500km marker. Fancy Pants catches up.

DAY 113 (August 23)
13 miles to go to Edna 

Meet Jazzman during breakfast break at one of the water sources. He had been to PCT days at Cascade Locks by train and is now back on trail.

Reaching the road, I wonder if a car would ever come that way at this time of the day. And we were four! To our surprise, a pickup truck came up the hill and stopped. While the other 3 squeezed into the backseat, I took the passenger seat beside a big rifle. A hunter who was heading home after a successful early morning hut. A bit scary but still happy to get into town so quickly.