Tehachapi to Walker Pass
DAY 44 (June 14) | Crazy winds
Highway 58/Camden Road to Tentsite Mile 572.9
7.7 miles
I am determined to hike out with Matthew “Mixed Rice” today! After yesterday’s 8-mile-test-hike I think I can give it a try. Sitting around will not help me to find out.
We decided to take it slow though with a decent breakfast at the bakery while both doing some emailing and other “errands” on the Internet.
At 3.45 pm we finally took the bus to Highway 58/Camden Road. The trail followed the highway for quite a bit until started heading up a mountain range (we would have to climb 3.000 feet that day). It was already windy when we were at the bottom and became even stronger with every step we moved uphill.
We both held on to our telling poles, literally stemming against the wind in order not to be blown off the mountain. At one turn we both sat down as it became absolutely crazy, however, decided that there was no other way than moving on.
Once we were even further up, the trail led to the other side of the mountain - still windy but less extreme - where we found a relatively protected campsite amid some trees.
DAY 45 (June 15) | This foot is made for walking
To Mile 590
17.1 miles
Took some Ibuprofen in the morning just in case. Walking seemed ok with my foot, especially after the first 2 miles where we entered some kind of valley where it seemed that someone had suddenly switched off the "wind button".
All good until suddenly a part of my pole broke. Damn, I thought I urgently need it as a support! Of course with that in mind, I started stumbling a few times from that point on. Not sure if that was really due to walking with just one pole or if my brain was just panicking. Just before I reached the water source where Mixed Rice was waiting, I came up with the idea to simply extend the length of the broken pole! Why has this thought taken me so long?
At the spring, we learned that there are now 2 reliable water caches within the 40-mile stretch without any water source.
Great news! I had already developed strategies in my head on how to manage this. I decided that 8 liters would be the max. amount I would want to carry (a heavy burden already under normal circumstances left alone with a bad ankle) which meant doing 20 miles a day and most probably some night hiking for it to be sufficient.
So no need for 8 liters at once and 20-mile days. What a relief! Who is that (trail?) angel who heard my prayers and installed those water caches?
After lunch, we decided to check out the campsite within 5 miles but it was completely unprotected from the wind, so no option for tenting. I felt my foot already and thought that the next site in 5 miles would be tough to get to. Luckily, we found a semi-protected spot at a pipe gate after 2 miles and decided to setup camp there.
Day 46 (June 16) | Bye bye wind turbines
To Mile 604
14 miles
It was daylight already when I woke up. Hidden inside my sleeping bag including my head and pillow I literally missed the sunrise. Mixed Rice who was about to prepare his oatmeal said it would be totally fine to leave around 7am-ish so no hurry. I had a cinnamon bagel with Philadelphia cheese and honey I had picked from a hiker box together with a cold coffee (can't bother heating water, it's perfect cold too). Yummy, what a superb breakfast!
When we left at 7.20 it was windy and quite chilly and I was hoping that this was the last time we would see wind turbines. Just about 2 miles later it looked like my wish would be fulfilled: We entered a very nice forest area.
The ground was super soft and within no time we had done 10 miles. We decided to have lunch before the next water source in 3 miles and found a cozy and peaceful spot in the grass between the trees.
After lunch the water we had left was scarce, so we headed with big steps to Robin Bird Spring, however not without taking the obligatory photo when passing mile 600 of course.
Once there we heard new rumors: apparently up to 300 hikers are currently piling up in Kennedy Meadows waiting for the snow to melt. Some sort of a refugee camp with a waiting list for taking a shower of up to 2 days and overflowing toilets. Not very exciting prospects!
We reviewed options of taking a break in some town somewhat on the way before and Ed mentioned Ridgecrest. It is quite a bit off trail (37 miles?) but there is a bus from Walker Pass and it systems to have affordable accommodation and good shopping options (Walmart) compared to other mountain towns.
Continued for some 2 miles and found a cozy spot (no wind and soft ground) in the woods at mile 603.9.
DAY 47 (June 17) | Lazy afternoon
To water cache at Kelso Road at 615.9
12 miles
Yesterday at the spring, Peanuts mentioned a heat wave coming with temperatures rising slowly up to 106F/45C until Monday. The good news: hikers in Kennedy Meadows will start moving as snow melts, the bad news: This heat will hit us just when we have to pass the upcoming stretch with very little water (42 miles not taking into account water caches).
The campsite was so cosy and after the news about KM we were not in a hurry at all, so we had a long sleep and breakfast and did not leave camp before 8.30.
Landers Meadow Spring, a beautiful area with many trees, grass, and shade was only 5 miles away. “Bavarian”, a German section hiker, was already there and quite down when he learned that resupply options at KM are very limited. We talked about different other options but he still seemed not happy. I realized at that point being on the trail for so long, not many things can puzzle me anymore really. In the end “the trail provides” and everything works out somehow.
We had lunch and spent the whole afternoon there. Carey, a local trail angel, arrived providing us with fruit (melon and cherries, yummy), cookies, and wet wipes. We talked for quite a while about how it is living up here in the mountains and that she would like to have some kind of hiker heaven up here before she headed off on her ATV.
We left the spring at 6 pm and walked another 7 miles to the water cache at Kelso Road where we filled up water - I decided that 6 liters must be enough for the upcoming 36-mile stretch - and set up camp directly there.
DAY 48 (June 18) | The Joshua Tree
To campsite mile 635
18 miles
My alarm was set to 4 am as we wanted to be on trail by 5 am to be able to make 10 miles by 10 am before another large lunch break/siesta to avoid the heat. The forecast had predicted some crispy 91F/33F.
I was happy to start walking into the sunrise but soon got into a slightly bad mood as there was a slight climb and my body felt somewhat tired. Seemed as if the engine was not reaching momentum and every step was an effort in itself. At some point realized though that my foot does not hurt anymore even without painkillers and I suddenly felt very happy and grateful. Lunch and shade under Joshua tree.
It was still 5 miles to a possible water cache and as always it took me a while to get going after lunch. The first stretch was quite a bit uphill, very sandy, and without shade, in short, a bit exhausting.
I was hoping/praying that there would be water at the cache to have some extra water for cooking dinner and I also dreamed about a little trail magic although this had already happened the day before. I had run out of energy bars so worth chocolate would be great. When I finally arrived at Bird Spring, I saw Mixed Rice already kneeling in front of a box: it was full of Snickers bars, peanut butter, tortillas, and - hard to believe: Nutella!! OMG, my dreams had come true!
After devouring some of these treats and filling up on water, we literally ran up the hill. Despite an elevation gain of 1500 feet, we reached the campsite at the top (5 miles) by 9.30 pm.
DAY 49 (June 19) | Clouds
To Walker Pass CG
13 miles
We started walking at 5 am with a beautiful sunrise. I had put on my wind jacket but took it off after 20 minutes as the air was warm already. It would be mostly downhill or flat today and surprisingly the trail descended into a forest-like area with lots of shade and soft ground to walk on for at least 5 miles before turning into a dryer area again. By 10 am it was hot already and stopped for a break below some trees.
When I wake up from a little map after lunch, quite a few clouds are covering the sky. I discuss with Mixed Rice whether I should continue walking: in the end, it will be only 6 miles to the campground at Walker Pass and I would prefer hanging out there instead of here.
It is an easy walk with beautiful views. Once we get to the campground, we met Lighter Bomb, 5 o’clock, and two Mexican girls there. Shortly after Giggles and GDub arrive too coming back from a shopping trip to Lake Isabella. They all would head out shortly while both Mixed Rice and I decided to camp here.
