Stevens Pass to Stehekin
October 6
Zeroing at Dinsmore Hiker Haven
I kicked off my day with a hearty breakfast in Skykomish. The town is only a short hitch away but a friend of the Dinsmores offered to take us there. The next stop is the local supermarket (of course!) where I picked up some essentials for the day.
Despite the picturesque setting, I was feeling a bit sick, so I decided to take it easy. I spent most of the day lounging around, watching movies, and recharging my batteries. It was a much-needed break.
When dinnertime rolled in: Surprise! Burger party! They hit the spot, filling my stomach and lifting my spirits.
Later in the day, I struck up a conversation with Chris, a friendly local who shared insights about the ever-changing weather patterns in Skykomish.
As the day drew to a close, a couple of more hikers rolled in, including Sabrina from Germany. We exchanged stories wondering if we had met before or where we might have just missed each other.
OCTOBER 7
Lady Jane Lake
10 miles
Our day began with an authentic Israeli breakfast prepared by PushUp (as authentic as can be in this corner of the world). We had plans to hitchhike, but luck was not on our side. In the end, Chris came to our rescue, offering us a ride that got us back to Stevens Pass.
Snooze Button was lingering at the restaurant at the pass. Stich was experiencing similar issues like i did the day before, and we both wondered if the nuts from the hiker box were to blame for our stomachaches.
PushUp, on the other hand, still had a sandwich to keep him going. Determined to make progress, I decided to hike out with three other fellow hikers, leaving PushUp behind with the assurance that he would catch up.
Our journey led us to camp at Lady Jane Lake, where we found a serene spot to set up for the night. Stitch had already pushed ahead, covering more ground. We were reunited with Bam at the campsite. I fell asleep immediately and had a warm night’s sleep.
OCTOBER 8
Lake Sally Ann
20 miles
Starts raining at night, get up at 6.30, start having breakfast, takes me ages to pack, others still sleeping in their tents, PushUp says he will wait out the rain but I have doubts that it is going to stop soon. I have a chat with Bam who thinks the same and is planning to head out soon too.
After roughly 30 minutes of walking, Stitch comes from the opposite direction. He says he is going home due to foot pain and cold, the trail is only puddles further ahead. I feel sorry and a bit puzzled at the same time and wish him good luck.
The rain ceases for some time during the morning but picks up heavily again in the afternoon. I don't really want to stop but at some point want to eat my sandwiches but no good shelter anywhere really. I sit below a tiny tree and try to protect myself with my poncho and umbrella. PushUp passes me and says he does not know where he is. It's 7 miles to the next campsite at a lake and 3 more miles to another less exposed one.
The rain comes down relentlessly and makes every step a challenge. I reach a creek crossing, now transformed into a river, with no option but to accept wet feet as I splash across. I almost run to that lake where I find PushUp inside his tent under some trees. He says it's windy and cold, not the best tent site. I struggle to find a spot that is protected and does not already have puddles of water. With all the wind and rain it is challenging to set up and by the time I get inside the floor is already slightly wet.
I quickly change into dry clothes and prepare dinner. To my surprise, the warmth from the meal makes me feel cozy quickly. Fatigue washes over me, and I drift into sleep until 2 a.m. when I awake and decide to jot down these notes. I sip water from my pot that I left outside to collect some water on this rain-soaked night.
OCTOBER 10
To Tentsite Mile 2512
No rain in the morning when I take out my earplugs. I get out of my tent to pee. Amazing views of a snow-covered mountain range! Looks like there might be sun out today.
I get water and check if PushUp is fine. I have just finished breakfast when someone suddenly shouts “Sun!”. I get dressed, put down my tent, and lay everything that is more or less wet in the sun to dry.
I start walking at 10 am and more awesome views of mountains coming up including some impressive Glacier peaks during my lunch break.
The descent to the valley is easy but I do not see PushUp at the spot where we planned to camp so I continue to the next river. It is quite a big and noisy one. Nobody is there either so I decide to walk up another 2.5 miles to a campsite at 5300ft elevation close to a stream. I get there by 7.30 pm sweating and have a good sleep after a yummy dinner I took from the Dinsmore’s hiker box.
OCTOBER 10
To Milk Creek (Mile 2522)
At night it starts drizzling and I wonder what is sliding down my tent walls … it is snow!
The walk in the snow in the morning is beautiful. I am the first one to put my footprints in the snow which means that PushUp must be behind. Where did I miss him? There is sun out but the higher I climb, the cloudier it gets and just before reaching the pass at 6,300ft it starts snowing again.
PushUp catches up on the way down. We opt for a quick break to have a warm drink but fingers are cold and numb that its almost impossible to use a lighter.
After evaluating with Pushup about what to do, I decide to set up tent at 4 pm near Milk Creek as the next tent site would be at 6,300ft after a 2,000 ft climb. There is snow most probably and it would be way colder than down here (and maybe windy too?).
Main discussion point: Do we have enough food? 47 miles to go to Stehekin.
Nice to have some more time in camp which I use to see if I can fix my tent zipper.
OCTOBER 11
To Miners Creek (Mile 2547)
24 miles
A steep climb up to 6500ft in the morning. Up there is a beautiful landscape covered in snow.
Fast pace following PushUp. Lunch by river. Afternoon longer but steady climb until reach camp. Bam also arrives later.
OCTOBER 12
To High Bridge Ranger Station
23 miles
A squirrel shouts at me in the morning while I collect water from the creek my breakfast.
Slept surprisingly warm although I was very cold when getting to camp last night. Doing sit ups seemed to have worked.
Beautiful walk in the snow in the morning.
Lunch at a giant rock in the sun with Bam. We take the chance to dry or sleeping bags, socks and shoes. All afternoon is a walk in the forest where it is dark and cold - although it's a sunny day - so I wear my gloves almost all day.
Afternoon passed very slowly and the miles to the Ranger Station seemed endless. I get there at 6pm. Bam and PushUp are already setting up their tents and so do I. I give some food to PushUp and make my dinner from all the left overs from the previous days which turns out to be a spicy ramen-mac&cheese-veggie-tuna-soup. Surprisingly good!
OCTOBER 13
Zeroing in Stehekin
0 miles
I slept with my ear plugs so I did not realize that it has started raining at night.
Not much left for breakfast, but hey, the famous Stehekin bakery is so close! We pack our stuff while it is still drizzeling and find shelter under the porch of the ranger station until the shuttle arrives. The long awaited stop at the bakery seems like paradise, yummy pastries, I even take a few pieces for the following days. Stehekin, a holiday resort by a nice lake, has a lovely location. Theres a few vacationers and hikers around but it all feels like end of season already.
Sunshine shows up later in the day and we let her sneak into our room which is pretty small but with some tetris puzzeling we find space for a sleeping pad between the beds. I am kinda worried when I see her foot which so swollen that I wonder how she made it here, not even talking about the last . But she is determined to finish.
The weather forecast is not promising, a snow storm is predicted for the north west. I am thinking about another zero day here despite the expensive rooms in the only lodge that is still open (and I am not even sure how long they are still open). PushUp advocates for walking to Rainy Pass (approx 20 miles) tomorrow and then wait out the storm at the trail angel place in Mazama. In case the weather turns bad already tmrw the only option to be sheltered would be some kind of abandoned hut somewhere on the way. I am doubting but it probably is our only option under these circumstances. It will be a day that I will most probably never forget …