Day 110/111 | Wellington
30/31 January 2023 | 21°C
I am in love with Wellington! Surrounded by rolling hills, heaps of bars and restaurants along the harbor, great variety of food and tons of cafes.
A few of the things I did:
Sleeping in until 9am (veeeeery late for hikers)
Picking up my shoes at the post office
Trying to find toe socks (not successful)
Catching up with this journal (just a little bit, too many other things to do)
Talking to people in the hostel
Getting fresh stuff from the supermarket (yoghurt, smoothies, carrots, bananas)
Evening walk by the harbor and watching some kayak teams do their training
Visiting the Te Papa museum (could have spend much more time there)
Day 112 | Ngaio
1 February 2023 | 25°C | 7km
Today starts my solo hiking journey for the rest of the trail!
Phil had planned to do the South Island only until end of January and headed back home early morning yesterday. For sleeping in a 6 person dorm - something I haven’t done quite a while - I slept surprisingly well.
As the Te Papa museum has been recommended to me several times - and though I feel an urge to get going- I decide in the morning to spontaneously pay it a visit. Only 2 hours is my plan …. at 2pm I reluctantly leave it and after getting my stuff from the hostel and head out it’s 3pm.
At least I can get some mikes in. It’s a short walk through the city center with all its ships again until the trail leads uphill, the so called skyline track that offers great views back onto the city with all those colonial style houses sprinkled all over its surrounding hills.
While I walk through the suburbs yet it’s colonial style houses, I realize that I miscalculated the day before: the next campsite in the town of Porirua is further away than expected. Passing buy the train station of Ngaio, I do a quick research on train connections. Most towns up to Waikanae are conveniently connected by train/bus, so I decide to call it a (hiking) day and drive up to Porirua where I find a nice spot with views over the lake at the local campground.
Plan for the next day: Leave my pack at the campground and catchup with the missed kilometers the next day with just a few snacks and water (slackpacking).
Day 113 | Porirua to Ngaio
2 February 2023 | 25°C | 20km
As planned I leave all my stuff in my tent and head out with just some snacks and my water bottle. Slackpacking “backwards”.
A quick stop at a simple bakery/cafe down the road and I am on trail. I walk up the road, pass by a sports field where a class of the local school seems to have their sports lesson in the morning …. 20 minutes later I realize that I am walking into the wrong direction!
Though I headed into the direction of Ngaio (where I left off yesterday), the fact that the trail is winding its way around town puts me on the wrong track. The trail I should have taken started going uphill right behind the campsite. Damn!
So 20 minutes later I climb the stairs up towards Colonial Knob. It’s a bit windy and clouds up there do prevent views over the valley. There is sheep, rolling hills, wind, an occasional slight drizzle and a glimpse of sea in the distance, that’s how I imagine Ireland’s countryside. No great views of the surroundings, but it has something mystical & magical.
During the course of the afternoon I pass by a few locals walking their dogs or going for a day walk until suddenly …. I see a glimpse of Wellington again. I am a bit puzzled in the first place as I felt I was so far away already … but of course I am again on the SKYLINE walk and that is exactly what I should see …. 😅
After reaching Ngaio in the early afternoon, I head back to Porirua by train for a big Turkish falafel plate. Looking forward to moving further north again tomorrow!
114 | Paekakariki
3 February 2023 | 22km
My hair has been bothering me for a while already. When it’s warm my ponytail now touches my sweaty neck. So while sitting at a picnic table having my morning coffee, I get out my little scissors and simply cut off a bit from my ponytail. Once I have it in my hand, it’s a bit more than expected, still I am pretty happy with my hair cutting skills.
It’s an early Sunday morning and the sun starts peeping through the clouds. I met joggers, dog owners and people enjoying a morning walk in the park while I leave Porirua towards Plimmerton.
Nothing spectacular, just an easy walk with many good options (eg. cafes, service stations) on the way. No need to carry food really during the next couple of days. It gets more interesting in the afternoon when I reach the so called Escarpment Track: steep up along the coast with great views on Kapiti Island. A lot of day hikers on (in 😅) the way, yes it’s a Sunday!
Just before Paekakariki before the last downhill, I pause for a while to listen to the ocean. What a lovely moment!
I have no idea yet where to stay tonight but the first thing in the small beach town of Paekakariki is getting a big fruit juice from the small store. While I sit on a bench to pour it down within a couple of minutes and dig into my food bag, someone passing by asks me if I have just hiked the Escarpment Track.
It turns out Paul who lived here years ago and is now back for a vacation, has never done that track so far. We get into a longer conversation about hiking, breathing techniques and open water swimming. I get offered tea, a delicious vegetarian dinner and a place to sleep.
The trail provides!
Day 115 | Waikanae
4 February 2023 | 25°C | 24km
I am somewhere in a skiing area but cannot find my skies. Was there a mix up with somebody else’s? While i am still confused someone says “Tanja, do you still want to come for a morning swim?”
Still puzzled I wake up. Phew, just a dream. Sure I wanna go, and quickly put on my swimsuit.
There is quite a few waves that break at the beach and in order get past them, I get introduced to duck diving: as soon as the wave is right in front of me I dive under it, touch the ground and crawl forward under the wave. It takes a few attempts to get used it (and I accidentally swallow some water) but pretty quickly I am a couple of hundred metered away from the beach. The water is not very cold but still refreshing. What a great way to start the day!
Quick morning tea and I head out towards Wakanae. The forecast predicts rain for the evening, so ideally I am there already once that kicks in.
It’s a nice walk along the beach until I turn inland for I little detour to Mitre10: I still need a gas canister before entering the Tararuas. Luckily the big shops are open even on public holiday.
Again, I still don’t know where to stay that night; a lot of accommodation options “with a proper roof over one’s head” seem to be fully booked for that long weekend: Tomorrow (Monday) is Waitangi day, a (controversial?) national holiday in New Zealand.
My first stop in town around 5h30pm is the Countdown supermarket to resupply for the next 5 days. Once I get out the rain has fully kicked in. Hmmm. I check the trail app and call one of the options where hikers can stay for a donation to see if the have availability. A friendly lady answers and says yes of course and that there are already 3 hikers.
After half an hour of walking in the rain, I enter the kitchen and longe area of the River Pa. Before I can take off my rain poncho someone offers me a hot tea. Looks like I am in the right place!
Day 116 | Parawai Hut
5 February 2023 | 25°C | 25km
There have been heavy wind warnings for the Tararuas in the previous days and a German southbound hiker that I talked to the previous day said that it was pretty rainy and rugged for him.
The forecast for the next days predicts a much better weather window though. It’s still quite windy even in Waikanae in the morning though, so I decide to wait until midday before heading out. It’s a 10km walk up the road to the trailhead. The weather starts clearing and upon my arrival there, the sun is full on. Roughly 700m climbing ahead of the but it’s mostly in the forest and then this kind of elevation is not a real challenge for a northbounder, isn’t it? 😜
After 2.5 hours, I reach the Pukeatua summit, not much of a view up there, so I continue walking downhill. There still is sufficient daylight but in the forest at 6pm it is quite dark already. At some point I stop to take a look at the map and have a snack, when suddenly I hear a voice behind me. It feels like someone is walking right behind me. 😱
I scream and turn around … and see a possum that has just jumped from one tree to another. Phew, what a relief.
We look at each other for quite a while. It is curious and not afraid at all.
It’s a relief for the eyes once I reach a more open forest with several grassy clearings and much more light. A car park I see on the map and the next hut should not be too far away now.
Three other hikers have just finished their dinners once I arrive at Parawai Lodge - the hut that is so tucked away that I feel I have walked around it twice before actually finding it.
Person of the day: One of the hikers at the hut just fished the CDT (Continental Divide Trail), now on the Te Araroa and after finishing that will start the PCT (Pacific Crest Trail) 😳
Day 117 | Waitewaewae Hut
7 February 2023 | 20°C | 12km
Six hours for just 10 km to the next hut. While eating breakfast, I’m still considering starting the next big climb after the next hut today, but I quickly drop that idea.
Everything starts off smoothly, with the trail in good condition and even the sun making an appearance.
But then, suddenly, there’s a sign indicating a turn off the relatively even track towards Waitewaiwai Hut. This must be the detour someone mentioned, I think. From there, it’s all fallen trees, mud, roots, and steep steps. Progress becomes painfully slow. After a mentally exhausting six hours, I finally reach the hut around 3 p.m. There’s no way I’m continuing today.
Fortunately, a lovely trail family is already at the hut. We all head to the river for a swim and a wash, have dinner, and play some games. A happy ending!
Day 118 | Nichols Hut
8 February 2023 | 23°C | 8km
While the trail family staying with me at Waitewaiwai Hut complained about hurting knees after I steep downhill yesterday, I have a big climb ahead of me: 1200m elevation gain up to Mount Crawford. The area up there can be pretty windy, let’s see what the weather gods prepared for me today.
There are some mountains where the uphill is probably easier than the downhill and I guess this is one of them. I enjoy the climb through the misty mystical forest that reminds me of Lord of the Rings. Once I leave the sheltering trees it immediately gets windy. While I stop and put on my wind jacket on, a hiker comes running down the hill saying that there are some gusts up there and wishes me good luck. Hmmmm … 🤔
Not a big deal so far I think when I reach a junction with another trail. I take a little video and then head on; “the earlier I get off that ridge, the better”, I think. The trail is good and I move on quickly - just a little bit of mud - until I cannot see the trail anymore. A look at the map reveals: I am on the wrong track! The 20 minutes of walking back to the junction seem eternally long.
Why did I not notice earlier? Well, forget about it and move on! The wind picks up on the way to Mount Crawford. Once at the summit I squat down to not be blown away and then carry on quickly. Everything is covered in white around me, just for a couple of minutes some clouds get blown away and I can see the lush green of a forest .. and for a few seconds I get a glimpse of the ocean in the far distance until everything around me is turning white again.
I am a bit relieved when I finally see Nichols hut at 3pm; didn’t feel comfy in that windy weather all alone. It’s only 3pm and I am the first on there. How that never happened on that trail so far!
I eat my late lunch, do some cleaning in the hut (did anyone staying there the previous night swipe the floor? Probably not). Once I start writing my journal, I hear voices. It’s a group of 5 TA hikers from New Zealand who met in the previous hut. Now we are exactly 6 ppl in a hut with six bunks.
Technically all bed are taken (and luckily nobody else arrives) but I heard from others that there were up to 12 hikers on previous days 😱 What’s good: the more ppl in a hut the warmer it gets What’s important: leaving the window at least a tiny bit open at night :)
Day 120 | Matahika Outdoor Pursuit Center
10 February 2023 | 21°C | 19km
The first alarm rings at 5am and a couple more until 5.30am. Why are people getting up so early? Is it going to be a competition who arrives first at Nichols hut with only 6 beds? Luckily I am walking into the opposite direction.
When I get out of bed at 6am to make coffee, most of the other hikers have left already. How nice and quiet. Just Chas is still there with whom I talk about the differences between PCT/AT and Te Araroa. When I leave the hut at 8, the sun is out and instantly the air feels much warmer and less wet. I soak in the sun for a few minutes before I start walking.
Awesome views after a first climb up to Richards knob! I can suddenly see the coastline as well as look back to the ridge I walked on the past two days.
I am almost running down the mountains and opt for a long big lunch break once I reach a nice grassy clearing by the river. A food package is waiting for me at the Matahika Outdoor Center (including a huge bucket of yoghurt … yum!), so I eat as much as I can from what I still have left in my food bag. 😅
Day 121 | Camp at km 1504
10 February 2023 | 21°C | 24km
At 7.45pm I reach a nice grassy clearing in the forest called Burttons Whare on the map. A perfect campsite!
I initially had planned to “do a big day” and get to Motorimu hut but that’s still 7km away with unknown (muddy?) terrain. And maybe today is my last chance to sleep in the bush at all on this trail?
Hiking today was again up and down some forest mostly without views so I talk to almost everybody I meet today to entertain myself and keep my good mood:
A young TA hiker who wants to do a 50km day today getting to Nichols hut 😱 in the midst of the Tararua range (stayed there two days ago). I just mention that “it gets very slow up there” and head on
Carol doing geocaching in the forest whose son is currently hiking the TA on the South Island. We chat for quite a while and as I move on she reminds me to always call my mum 😊
A couple with a little hunting dog on a weekend trip with their campervan. They invite me for a cup of tea and have a lot of questions around thru hiking and give me some fresh fruit before I move on.
Dermot, a southbounder whom I meet in Ian’s and Franks Hut. We explore different options on how I could best invest the time I have left.
Day 129 | Whakapapa River Bridge
19 February 2023 | 21°C | 37km
Vroom, vroom, vroom ..... I am not sure if it is 4am and 5am when someone opens and closes the door of their van. several times. Not only is it the noise that wakes me up but also a lot of light at at time that feels like the middle of the night to me.
I remember the lady from the campground saying that the don't let any more camper vans in after 6pm to not disturb the guests that want to leave early for the Tongariro crossing but what about the noise from exactly these people??
Though I know I need to walk at least 35km today, if I want to finish in Tamaranui tomorrow, I take my time for breakfast and clean my pack before heading out. After roughly an hour of roadwalk, I reach the trailhead of the so-called 42 Traverse that is officially partly closed. While I stand in front of the sign I hear a car and quickly jump into the bush to not be seen.
To my relief, the start is not as muddy as I though. Mainly an easy walk along a path paved by a 4WD. Piece of cake! When still hiking southbound, I thought the 42Traverse would be another mountain to climb .... far from it! Its basically walking on a gravel road crossing State Forest 42. Also the initial earth slip that everyone was talking about (and the reason why this section is partially officially closed) I supereasy compared to a lot of sketchy bits on the rest of the trail - also thanks to other hikers that have already established new trails on the actual landslide.
At the end of a rather long day I reach the bridge and an apparently popular spot with campers by the river. A lady smiles at me while I walk around trying to find the perfect camp spot. We start chatting and it turns out she is from Austria travelling around New Zealand in a van with her daughter. The start of a lovely evening exchanging travel stories while having some ice cold beers ...
Day 130 | This is the end: Back in Tamarunui!
20 February 2023 | 22°C | 24km
I slept like a baby. I don't really like to get out of my sleeping bag but the fact that fresh pancakes are waiting for me finally gets me going.
After a delicious breakfast and the first euphoric hour of walking, the trail gets a bit boring but I meet quite a few bikers that do Tour Aotearoa, the bike version of the Te Araroa hiking trail, also two gentlemen that are already in their 70s/80s. Chapeau! My last lunch: coffee and a chocolate croissant that I have been carrying for several days. already. Still yum. During the afternoon I make friends with several cows that follow me along the fences as far as they can.
A bit of a shock for me: I witness how (a lot of) sheep are loaded into a truck, they have little windows in their cages ( "rooms" for 4 or 5 of them) but the whole thing looks like a 3 story house. Everything goes pretty fast and I wonder if they are used to it or just move so that the continuously barking dogs finally stop. Either way it must be stressful. I stop and stare for quite some time and then continue walking. As soon as the big truck passes me by on the gravel road, I am covered in dust and start coughing.
As always the last miles seem to be never ending, another turn, another long road. Once the road starts its long decent into Tamarunui, I pick up speed until I greet another hiker walking upwards towards the canoe hire place. Though I am a bit in a hurry already, we chat for quite a while. If I still had time, it would be the perfect timing for finding a partner for the canoe ride but not for me this time.
The last meters are full of thoughts and pass quickly .... suddenly I am standing on the main street of Tamarunui, opposite the i-site bus station from where I stopped my southbound journey ... OMG!
