GPT 32 | Cerro Castillo (Las Horquetas)
24 February 2024
“Are you carrying an insulated tent?” asks the lady beside me on the early morning bus.
“I have a good sleeping bag,” I reply, not wanting to explain that insulated tents don't really exist. She’s another kind soul worried about me walking alone on a well-maintained track called “Las Horquetas” in Cerro Castillo National Park.
Despite its popularity, I don't see anyone else until I reach the first campsite, not counting the ranger at the park entrance.
It's too early to set up camp there, but a few tents are already pitched, and the only person around is a guy standing in the middle of the trail, staring at his phone. He has a light pack and looks a bit worn out. A thru-hiker, perhaps? He starts walking quickly, and I only catch up when he stops to take a photo.
“Hi!” I say. “Hi. Are you a GPT hiker?” he replies.
“Yes!” We’re both surprised and curious since neither of us has seen another thru hiker in a long time. We continue together over the pass. Although we camp in different spots—he prefers a small lake tucked away in the bushes while I stick to a flat area close to the trail—we agree to walk together the next day. It's sweet to have some company again!
25 FEBRUARY 2024
The scenery is stunning for most of the day. Glaciers, waterfalls, and the breathtaking Laguna Castillo. It is cloudy in the early morning and I'm so lucky that the sun comes out just as I'm having my delayed breakfast by the lagoon. Sunlight transforms the colors dramatically!
Once we reach the entrance of the national park, there is a group just before us reaching the ranger station and we manage to sneak out without paying. Just to find out thought that its very unlikely to find a ride into Villa Castillo.
Pure happiness after a rather boring walk on a gravel road for 8 kilometers: There is a food truck right beside the Carretera Austral selling homemade, non-standard burgers. Food first!
Next on the list is accommodation. Nordic Backpackers is a combination of a campground and hostel. We opt for a dorm, and later in the evening, a bikepacker joins us. I immediately find it much easier to understand his Spanish. Turns out he’s from Barcelona!