GPT35 | Parque Patagonia
Chile Chico
26 February 2024
My tent is a bit wet in the morning. “Did it rain last night?” I ask Lilian.
“Are you joking?” he replies. Apparently, it rained quite a bit in the early morning hours. Since I wear earplugs when camping on official campgrounds to avoid being woken up by snoring, I didn’t notice a thing. We both head to the supermarket early to resupply for GPT section 35.
Recently, I discovered that eggs are a great source of protein on the trail, so I boil a pack of six in the campground’s kitchen area to take with me. I couldn’t find Nutella in the supermarket, so the eggs will also serve as my breakfast for the next part of the trail.
Another prep task: having a big lunch before heading out. I opt for a large salad with tomatoes, tuna, avocado, and more to satisfy my cravings for veggies, fruit and fresh stuff. Plus a giant yogurt!
Heading out for GPT section 35
27 February 2024
Heading out at midday, we’re not lucky finding a ride to the trailhead, which is about 8 km away. After chatting with a person in a shop, he offers to “make an Uber” and take us for 10,000 CPL (about 10 euros). It's a bit expensive, but since no one accepted our official Uber request, we decide to take our chances.
Unfortunately, there’s a misunderstanding about how far he would take us, and we feel a bit ripped off as we still have to walk 3 km on the road. I’m a bit angry, but Lilian says, “Just forget it.” It still bothers me as we walk up to a pass during a sunny afternoon. However, the walk is nice, and eventually, I let it go.
A safari on a windy plateau
28 February 2024 | 15°C
The previous evening, while lying in my tent, I heard a few animal noises but couldn’t figure out what they were. Definitely not the horses grazing nearby—perhaps cows or sheep in the distance?
In the morning, it turns out the sounds were from a species I hadn’t seen before: guanacos, which look very similar to llamas. We spot the first ones on the way up to the pass. One of them, usually the last in line, seems to act as a guardian, warning the others when we come closer. It’s such a funny sound. 😀
Once we cross the pass, we see dozens of them. They always seem to be a step ahead, almost as if they know where we're going. It feels like being on a safari—we also spot flamingos by a lake, horses, rabbits, geese, and other birds.
If only there wasn’t that never-ending, strong wind! It lasts for many kilometers until we start descending. What a relief!
The afternoon is spent navigating cross-country, frequently checking our GPS to ensure we're heading in the right direction. By early evening, we hit the road, but there isn’t a single vehicle in sight—no ride to the entry of the national park today.
Luckily, we find a sheltered spot surrounded by trees. I wash my feet in the river and sleep like a baby.
Fifty shades of blue
29 February 2024 | 19°C
We are at the road by 7:30 a.m., hoping someone might be heading to the next town. Unfortunately, there isn’t a car in sight for miles, so we start walking the 12 km to the park entrance. We wonder about the ranger—doesn’t he drive to work?
By 9:45, we reach the park entrance. It’s 17,000 CLP for both camping and entrance. Phew!
Which lake is bluer? Lake Jenimeni is stunning with its various shades of blue, making it hard to move on. The shore of the lake is so inviting, perfect for sitting and staring at the water, if only the wind weren’t so strong.
We stroll along the “beach” to Lago Esmeralda and then Lago Azul. Its waters are so intensely turquoise that they seem unreal. We feel lucky the sun is out, allowing us to fully enjoy this natural beauty.
Lilian is ahead, and I lose sight of him once I reach the river. I look around but can’t see anyone. Did he speed so far ahead? I hear a bird whistle but see no one, so I continue through the windy valley to the next campsite. It’s nicely wind-protected and hidden in a small forest with a shelter for eating and a toilet. But no one is there.
Half an hour later, as I’m pitching my tent, I hear another whistling sound. Interesting bird, I think. Suddenly, Lilian walks into the campsite with a whistle in his mouth. 😂
Valle Hermoso & Casa de Piedra
1 March 2024 | 19°C
The weather forecast predicts rain and possibly snow this evening. Should we walk the 30 km to Casa de Piedra, a refuge?
Our morning trek takes us through a long valley over a stony riverbed with dozens of river crossings—thankfully, all easy. The sun touches the mountain tops but doesn’t reach the valley, which remains windy and cloudy.
Despite the stones, we make good progress since the terrain is pretty flat. Then, despite the forecast, the sun comes out in the afternoon! We feel so lucky.
Walking down to Casa de Piedra feels like traversing fields of gold, with dry grass stretching as far as the eye can see. As we reach the bottom of the hills, a vast valley opens up to the west: Valle Chacabuco.
It’s quite windy on the valley floor, and we pick up our pace to reach the campground, especially as dark clouds seem to follow us. But then we have to stop: a handful of guanacos are right beside the trail. They seem used to humans and don’t run away, so we take a little photo shoot.
Casa de Piedra turns out to be a campground with several shelters for cooking and lounging, plus hot showers, toilets, and a common room inside the stone house.
After a 30 km day, we’re happy to have made it here. We eat our dinners in the sheltered area outside, watching the rain pour down in the valley we just came from.
Lago Gutiérrez & a cold night
2 March 2024 | 6°C
We weren’t sure about the weather the previous night, but as I peek out of my tent in the morning, it looks much better than expected. Even a few rays of sunshine!
Surprise, surprise—on my way to the toilet, I see snow on the surrounding mountain tops! It looks like someone has sprinkled powdered sugar on them.
Lago Gutierrez is the next lake coming up. Though I thought I had seen enough lakes, this one shimmers in a deep blue under the morning sun. Another amazing Patagonian morning, complete with the familiar winds.
The walk is nice, but later in the afternoon, I start feeling exhausted. I have a bit of a cold—my nose is running and my throat is itchy. It seems like the wind of the past days has taken its toll. It’s hard to decide which layers to wear; it’s a constant battle between sweating and getting cold. During an additional afternoon break, I make a big pot of hot tea and take a power nap. I’m really tired.
“Would you like to camp here?” Lilian asks during our break.
“No, let’s go at least to the next lake so we have a chance to make it to town tomorrow,” I reply.
Despite a hearty dinner, I sleep cold that night and wake up several times. It seems like my body doesn’t have enough energy to produce heat. 😥
Lago Cochrane
2 March 2024 | 7°C
Despite sleeping cold and waking up early, I look forward to my morning coffee.
The morning involves a bit of up and down until we hit a track packed by a 4WD. Easy walking, yeah! We're so excited that we accidentally get off the trail. No constant checking of the GPS!
Though this route is longer, we decide to stay on it as it eventually leads us back to the regular GPT route. I’m tired of drinking cold water, so whenever we take a break, I pull out my stove for a cup of tea, hoping it’s good for my throat.
We take a late lunch break at the largest lake of this section: Lago Cochrane.
As if to say, "I am the most beautiful of all the lakes," it shimmers in different colors, from dark blue to turquoise, as we walk alongside it to the other end.
It's a warm afternoon, feeling like a summer holiday by the beach. Another great day on the trail!