GPT39 | Monte Fitz Roy
El Chaltén No 1: A Windy Welcome
9 March 2024 | 3°C
When I open my eyes in the overnight bus, I see a huge lake outside my window—Lago Viedma. It’s 7:30 a.m., and we must be very close to El Chaltén already. Although the Mountains around the town are hidden behind some big clouds, I am quite moved and excited once I hop off the bus.
Our objective here is to hike El Circuito de Huemules, which is also Section 40 of the Greater Patagonian Trail, while we wait for a good weather window for a multi-day glacier tour on the Chilean side.
At the visitor center, we learn that it’s going to be very windy for the next few days. This isn’t ideal for the four-day trek that includes two passes, one of which is called Paso del Viento (Windy Pass). Also, the views aren’t great, and we feel it’s a pity to just “rush through” for the sake of having done it.
Let’s wait until tomorrow and see.
There are other treks around, and as the weather changes rapidly here, there might be another chance in a couple of days. Will Cerro Torre or Mount Fitz Roy come out of their cloudy hideaway?
Monte Fitz Roy First Try: A Windy Morning and Hidden Views
11 March 2024 | 4°C
Heavy wind gusts in the morning destroy my emergency blanket, which I used during the night to protect my sleeping bag from rain or snow potentially blowing into my little cave. I am still protected and quite warm, but a few droplets sneak around the corner—not a big deal.
The very first light of the day reveals some shades—the mountain range just in front of me. Magic happens just before the sun rises: the mountains and the glacier are suddenly painted in a shimmering golden color! I have never seen anything like this before.
I make my coffee and breakfast while watching nature’s TV, when someone behind me starts picking up stones, wondering why there is a tent draped over them. “Hola!” I shout. Someone comes around. “Hola. Oh, I was wondering what this is. Sorry.” A group of three is heading up to climb one of the mountains; they say that there is a good weather window in the afternoon.
At 9 a.m., my hiking buddy Lilian, who camped closer to the lake, shows up. “Very windy last night,” he says. Though he pitched his tent in a protected spot behind a big rock, he had to additionally secure his tent with big rocks as the wind direction changed at night.
We both head up to Laguna de Los Tres cross country (no trail). It’s a rather steep climb, but I quite like it as we gain elevation very quickly. No one is in sight until we reach the lagoon, where several people are already walking around. It’s a pretty busy place, but Monte Fitz Roy doesn’t show up—it’s hiding behind the clouds 🥲.
When heading down, a lot of people are walking up. They seem to know that today is a good chance to see the popular mountain. We only realize this a couple of hours later during our lunch break. The clouds move, and move ….. and suddenly the sky is clear. Bummer! We just see the mountain tip from where we are at this point.
A stunning sunrise at Monte Fitz Roy
12 March 2024
My alarm clock rings at 6 a.m. I’m still in a dream and don’t understand what’s happening. Oh yes, I wanted to head up to Monte Fitz Roy for sunrise. Should I really do it or stay in my cozy sleeping bag? I snooze, and ten minutes later, the alarm goes off again. “Come on, get up,” I tell myself. I quickly get dressed, pack some snacks and my sleeping bag, and head out.
Until that point, I thought I might be the only one, but as soon as I look towards the mountain, I not only see a clear sky and the faint image of a mountain but also many little lights along the trail up to the lagoon. It seems a lot of people had the same idea! I start walking quickly, suddenly feeling like I am late. After just 1 km, I have to take off my midlayer as I start sweating already. It’s 400 meters of elevation gain, roughly one hour according to a sign.
Forty-five minutes later, I am very happy and moved as suddenly the mountain that has been hiding in the clouds for the last three days majestically appears in front of me: Monte Fitz Roy. It’s incredibly windy up at the lagoon. I quickly take some photos with another guy before I look for a protected spot behind some rocks.
Good thing I brought my sleeping bag. I wear it like a coat, allowing me to sit and watch the colors on the mountain turn from red to yellow and then white as the sun completely appears. What a fantastic moment. I stay a bit longer until my feet and hands are very cold, then quickly start moving downwards again. What a morning!
El Chaltén No. 2: Gear Repairs, Cake and Tea
13 March 2024 | 1°C
Rain and snow are what the weather gods have in store for the next couple of days.
Checking in with our guide for the glacier tour doesn't bring better news either—the good weather window has moved back as well.
We’re stuck in El Chaltén! It's not a cheap place, but it's also not the worst place to hang out for a day.
I use the time to patch up my tent. Using it as a wind shield has created some tiny holes—oh no! Luckily, my hiking buddy Lilian carries a big strip of DCF repair tape. It’s a bit of tedious work, but I hope I found them all.
My reward in the afternoon: a huge piece of cake and an enormous pot of tea in a lovely café.
Let’s wait, see, and drink tea!