Day 47 | Bluff
29 November 2022 | 16°C | 9km
I find myself sitting in a plane to Invercargill to the southern end of New Zealand. How come?
After getting to Tamaranui at km1040 on the northern island last Tuesday, it became clear that the following sections would be tricky for some time: Tongariro crossing closed due to high winds and snow, earth slide at 42Traverse and no canoe trip on the Whanganui river for at least a week due to the river carrying too much water. Instead of waiting I feel it’s time to realize an idea that has been in my head for some days already: jumping to the southern end and walking northbound instead of southbound.
At 12h30 we land in Invercargill, a 35km hitch away from the Southern terminus of the trail. It takes a short walk to the right spot and bit of patience but finally a young guy picks us up and drives us directly to Sterling Point outside the town of Bluff, the Southern Terminus of the Te Araroa. It am very hungry and it’s raining when we get out of the car so we go into the restaurant first to have a feast and get ready.
Though it slightly rains on and off (after taking the obligatory pictures at the southern monument), our first kilometers as NOBO hikers are a lovely walk along a rough coast with nice views, baby cow hikers and impressive waves.
Day 48 | Invercargill
30 November 2022 | 14° | 25km
The sun is out again! We camped by some picnic tables at “Ocean Beach” (not really a beach) just outside of Bluff a bit tucked away from the road. Good spot for a long breakfast. Not much to say about todays walk to Invercargill; it’s mainly walking on a bike track just beside the state highway. Once in a while some of the bypassing trucks start honking. Congratulations on starting the trail?
We don’t have snacks for today really due to not getting to a supermarket or dairy after getting out of the airport and mainly count on resupplying in Invercargill after 25km later today. Also I currently don’t have a water bottle. Not a big problem as there are no water sources on the way anyway. I get quite hungry though. I could cook one of my meals if only I had enough water …
At one point I pick up a water bottle that someone seems to have thrown out of a car and head to a house by the road asking the owner if he could fill it up with water from the tap. He says that the water at their old house is not very good but gives us a full bottle from the supermarket wishing us luck for the trip.
After taking a break, I hear some trekking poles clicking on the concrete … another hiker! His name is Conner (with an “e” not an “o”) and we walk and chat mostly about the typical topics such as gear, resupply, hitching until he is taking a break. Phil and myself are very keen on getting food so we leave the trail heading into Invercargill. We stop at a sports bar to have a snack and drink - the first place we see once getting into town - before heading to the supermarket.
Once we get out it’s pretty windy and I feel that I have cooled out quite a bit. I put on my puffy jacket and we head downtown to see a bit of the city center before heading back to the trail. Our plan is to warm up in a bar or cafe and then do a final push to a campsite some 6km out of town. Once we sit down we realize how tired our legs are and it’s just too tempting to stay at the hostel next door and do a bigger day tomorrow :)
Day 49 | Riverton
1 December 2022 | 14°C | 32km
It feels a bit odd to walk back towards the airport, the place we arrived at two days ago, but that’s were the trail goes.
We pass it by and after another 5 km reach Oreti beach. The sun comes out. It’s like a deja vue: ninety mile beach, 2nd edition. This time 22km. More wind but still a nice walk, we play around with different objects we find on the beach and admire old cars “buried” in the sand.
After a lunch break in the dunes, the wind picks up and while it’s coming from the side first, it later turns into a head wind. Walking becomes hard work now. We wonder if there’s a road parallel to the beach behind the dunes but can’t see anything on the map. Once we see a pine forest behind the dunes we head over and it’s a relief to walk between the trees out of the noisy wind.
The last kilometers still drag on forever but we make it to the supermarket just before it closes at 8pm. Surprisingly, the holiday park is fully booked with a school class. Bummer!
Riverton will become “the town of strange people” for us: The ladies in the supermarket do not know if there’s a pub in town (we find one a bit further down the road). The lady from the fish and chips shop does not know if there’s any accommodation in town (the lodge is just a 5 minute walk away). The grumpy owner of the lodge says he has no rooms but lets us camp in the backyard with access to a hot shower (next morning he tells us we should have asked for bunks instead of rooms 🤪).
Day 50 | Colac Bay
2 December 2022 | 12°C | 14km
It’s resupply day and it takes us some time to figure out how many days of food we need. More elevation gain soon, so days of 30km a day may not be realistic and the terrain (mud?) is unclear too. Once we finally head out it’s 1.30pm and the first walk up the road seems endless with our heavy packs. The sun is coming out and it looks like it’s going to be a lovely walk along the coast over sheep paddocks and beaches again.
The last 6 kilometers towards Colac Bay are on a longer gravel beach with impressive waves. Walking on the loose gravels is exhausting so I walk as close to the water as possible where the ground is more firm and flat even if the waves occasionally touch my already wet feet.
I reach for my phone to take a video of these impressive waves when I suddenly feel how my feet loose ground. I fall and see how a big wave devours my phone, water bottle and and trekking poles. While my trekking poles float away, once the water moves back I suddenly see and quickly pick up my phone. Turns out that my rather expensive waterproof case was a good investment.
We watch the waves moving back and forth for some time and Phil manages to recover one of my poles but the second one would not reappear. Bad luck as my tent sets up with poles but it’s just too cold to stand in the wind for longer. Despite quickly changing my wet clothes I feel freezing cold.
Fortunately, Colac Bay is not too far and we decide to walk the last 3km to the holiday park on the road. Time for a hot shower to get warm and a cold beer to get over the loss of my trekking pole!
Day 51 | Merrivale
4 December 2022 | 17°C
I look at my phone. Only 3am! No way, I can hold my pee till sunrise. Not sure though if I will be able to open the door of this old hut without waking everyone up. I climb down from the top bunk and everything goes smoothly. Phew!
Next time I wake up is when Michael starts packing his stuff at 5.45am. We all agreed in the evening that we wanted to get up early to get through the upcoming muddy, hilly section in the morning before the rain starts at midday.
Right after the hut there is a steep, only slightly muddy climb, perfect to get warm in the morning. After an hour or so we reach a windy but pretty ridge with great views back to the coast we walked along the last two days. Love that part despite the wind.
As soon as we get further down the mud slide begins. Two techniques prove to be successful: going right through and walking knee deep in the mud (faster) or finding a detour through the bushes (dryer but slower). It is doable but mentally exhausting and we are very happy once we “fall out” of the forest reaching a quarry.
I am looking forward to a rewarding lunch break but as soon as we sit down and get a coffee ready a light but annoying rain shower kicks in. Though it was was exactly want the forecast predicted, I am extremely disappointed, poor down my coffee and start moving again. So disappointed that I can’t enjoy the relatively easy walk through another forest that reminds me a lot of Lord of the Rings.
It’s all good again as soon as we reach Merrivale hut. A friendly farmer build a simple but cosy hut on his lawn with a porch and a big sink for hikers coming through. Perfect to wash all the mud off!
Day 52 | Birchwood
5 December 2022 | 17°C
Suuuuuunnnnn! It has been a while since wehave seen you! It’s a nice walk from Merrivale to Birchwood. Though there is a steep climb inbetween and I my legs are tired I enjoy this day much more than the previous one. I had struggled in the afternoon yesterday doubting why I do all this. Especially when it started to drizzle shortly after sitting down for lunch I got really angry and started doubting everything.
Wasn’t this trip supposed to be a present to myself? Didn’t I deserve a proper relaxing lunch break sitting down after the hard work on the morning? It was all predicted like that in the weather forecast but I just could not except it. Now everything is forgotten again and the climb seems to be a good training for the big mountains ahead. Once over the top a beautiful landscape with lush green paddocks, heaps of white dots (sheep) and a big mountain range in the background appears. Southern alps we are coming! Very soon!
Treat of the day: The Takitimu Tavern in Wairo has a shuttle service that picks us up at the hut at Birchwood Station and we have dinner there with Michael, Georgia and Conner.
Day 53 | Telford Campsite
6 December 2022 | 11°C | 27km
One of the hikers in the Birchwood hut feels a bit sick and runs to the loo several time at night. Did he drink bad water? Or is there some virus flying around?
It’s raining quite heavily in the morning and while one of the southbound hikers heads out early most of us have an extended breakfast to wait for the rain to stop. 10am is a late start but rain finally ceases. Great views of a valley with a wide river at lunchtime. A first sneak preview of what’s coming up? Phil is all exited to get his fishing rod into the water.
First sighting (and almost a catch) of a rainbow trout which seem to like the rivers up here. Also one of the many river crossings ahead. Wet feet will be daily business from now on 😅 Together with Michael and Georgia we head all the way to a small campsite beyond the border of the Linton Station, a huge private farming property.
Amazing (or puzzling?) how much land someone can have in this country!
Day 54 | Aparima Hut
7 December 2022 | 20°C | 23km
There is a little blue hole in the clouds when I squint out of the tent in the morning. The first signs of a lovely day! It starts with a steep climb though from about 600m elevation up to almost 1000m but it’s an uphill I enjoy … and a good preparation for the big mountains I guess?
As always, it is straight up, no switchbacks. Simply following the red poles that seem to wave from above on the way. We have great views to the hills back to where we came from. Very rewarding to see how much to terrain we have covered in the past three days.
Downhill on the other side through some forest and we quickly reach Lower Wairaki Hut, the perfect spot for lunch and drying socks. I can’t remember the last time I just lay on the grass in the sun. Love it!
Michael and Georgia roll a bit later, and while we are still chatting, Phil heads down to the river for some fishing. When I head out, I am not realizing yet how tired I am from the climb in the morning, my legs actually still feels fresh, but it’s a lot of up and down in the (boring) birch forest again! It’s very exhausting and it seems like my pack is getting heavier with each step. We take several breaks , but then decide to push on. I finally put on my headphones and listen to an audiobook which successfully distracts me from my monkey thoughts.
Once we get out of the forest, a wide valley with a river opens up and it feels like I am in a Hollywood movie where old man are fishing by a remote wild river. The last kilometer always seems to be the longest and it takes forever until the hut - nicely tucked away on a small plateau - comes into sight. Surprise! We would have it all for ourselves and have a big feast outside on the porch.
What a great end of a long exhausting day. 🙏
Day 56 | Mavora South Lake
10 December 2022 | 16°C | 26km
I am about to start packing when a happy man comes running towards me with a trout in his hands. Phil’s first catch! Looks like it’s fish for dinner tonight (though the vegetarian in me cringes a bit).
The trail follows the river all the way to the Mavora Lakes on an overgrown track so we decide to take a gravel road as an easier and welcome alternative after all the muddy, partly overgrown and slow up and downs during the last days.
Though it’s the weekend and the lakes seems to be a popular spot with locals, we find a nice quiet spot with a BBQ, picnic table and toilet at the southern lake. Time to get the fire going for a dinner with grilled fish instead of the usual pasta or rice after another long day!
Day 57 | Taipo Hut
11 December 2022 | 16°C | 29km
Rays of sunshine outside! We hang all of our damp clothes, tents, raincoats on a tree in the sun and start preparing breakfast when a big cloud suddenly covers all sunlight. Damn! It instantly feels much colder anc uncomfy and I have no motivation to get going really.
I start whining and sit down for a few minutes by the lake. Maybe the biggest problem is expectations management? Everyone says it is going to be summer and hot soon but it does not seem to happen yet. Would I hike in Sweden, I would most probably not be surprised by the weather and still be able to enjoy it.
Hmmmm … It’s going to be a walk along the lake for roughly 10km and eventually the sun will find its way through the clouds. It’s dawns on me that once summer is here it van be easily too hot 🥵 🤪 Once we pass Boundary Hut, we decide to push through to Taipo Hut as planned though the sign says it would be another 4-5 hrs. An indication that the terrain is not that easy. 13 km can usually be done in 2.5 hrs with the current elevation profile.
We are both struggling a bit on the way but are rewarded with an empty hut all for ourselves once we get there at 8h30pm after another long day.
Day 58 | Greenstone Car Park
12 December 2022 | 21°C | 21km
How would you calculate the time to cover a certain distance on a trail?
The equation I knew so far took into consideration distance and elevation but on Te Araroa a new variables need to be added: muddyness, boggyness or for today swampyness.
The time indication on the signs were quite accurate yesterday and todays sign indicates that it would be 4-5 hrs to the next hut. The sun is out and we happily start wandering through some swampy terrain while still admiring the beautiful valley we are in.
Once we take our first short break by a stream, we realize that there is only 6km left to the Greenstone hut. We are much faster than expected and press on to have lunch there. It’s the first serviced hut we encounter and we chat quite some time with the warden from Australia who just arrived and will spend the 6 month there taking care of the hut and doing some trail maintenance in the area.
It’s still early when we finish our mich break and there hour chances we could make it into Queenstown if we can get a ride. Phil’s friend Marc who lives in Queenstown might be able to pick us up but we would not have cell phone reception before the car park at the trail head.
Luckily, I have my PLB that allows to send text messages via a satellite connection. Texting with a Garmin is very tedious but with some patience I finally manage to send a short text. It’s the first time I am using it really and I am not sure if it actually works. We continue walking and an hour later a beep indicated the arrival of a message! Marc texts that he could pick us up at the car park around 5pm. Perfect timing!
Highlight of the day: the drive around Lake Wakatipu to Queenstown. Lord of the Rings scenery all around :)
Days 59-60 | Queenstown (zero days)
13 December 2022 | 23°C | 0km
After a demanding week of hiking, I finally had a rest day in busy Queenstown. The break was a perfect mix of relaxation and small adventures.
My main mission: replace my lost trekking pole. After having lost one to the waves a week ago in Colac Bay, it was time to get a new pair. After that, I enjoyed a yummy breakfast of fresh eggs and yogurt, a delicous change from my usual trail food.
We spent the midday hours cruising around town by bike. It was exhilarating to just roll down the hills and take in the sights of Queenstown. After the ride, I treated myself to a much-needed long sleep, catching up on rest that I desperately needed.
The evening was all about enjoying good food. I finally got to cook a real dinner in a real kitchen, a wonderful change from pouring water on dehydrated hiker meals.
And to top it all off: Heaps of ice cream!
Day 62 | Frankton
14 December 2022 | 22°C | 11km
I cycle downtown again after breakfast to get some stuff I had forgotten the previous day. When I roll down the hill to downtown Queenstown, I realize that I missed riding my own bike. Also driving on the left - which felt so awkward - feels more natural by now (but is still kind weird). 🤪
I finally find the right pair of injinji toe socks and a new dry bag for my tent that was ripped open while bushwhacking the other day. After some more “organizing business” eg. finding someone who would pick up and redirect my parcel from the Wellington post office, we head out at 2h30pm. No resupply needed as we are going to pass by various shops the next 2 days -> nice and light packs.
We stroll along the lake, stop a hundred times to admire “The Remarkables”, an impressive and distinct mountain range, wonder where the planes are flying to and look at quite a few desirable houses with sea view.
We would only make it to Frankton today which has a bit expensive polished campground right by the lake: impeccable showers, modern kitchen with a BBQ terrace overlooking the lake, TV room and a bath tub that is still closed unfortunately.
Day 63 | Arrowtown
15 December 2022 | 22°C | 12km
The Frankton campground is very close to to the (rather small) Queenstown airport and it’s kind of impressive to see how a plane literally emerges when walking out in the morning.
We pass by a shopping center where we have our second breakfast followed by some ice cream. It’s just too tempting to stop. Not much to say about the walk which is very similar to the day before. Just the name of the lakes changes to Lake Hayes.
Some raindrops here and there but not even enough to pull the rain jacket out. Arrowtown has a huge golf resort and as we walk by we can’t help but stop at a small bistro in the resort to have a cocktail. Pricey but totally worth it.
Intersting music selection in the background: while I sip on my Aperol Spritz, “Itsy Bitsy Teenie Weenie Yellow Polka Dot Bikini” plays in German!
Day 65 | Fern Burn Hut
17 December 2022 | 19°C | 17km
Three bigger climbs and steep downs today. 400m up each. Oh yes its the southern alps finally! As always it’s mostly straight up, switchbacks do not seem to be a thing down here. Quite a bit of hard work and over boarding happiness once reaching the saddle. Late lunch at Highcreek Hut after coming down from the second saddle, leaves one to go for the late afternoon. A bit exhausted and ver hungry, I drop my pack onto the porch to enjoy the sun.
Somebody seems to be here already as I hear noises from inside. What a surprise the four opens: it is Tim whom I had already met in the first week on the north island on a campground ninety mile beach. He is attempting an FKT unsupported (fastest known time) and has already walked/run all the way from Cape Reinga to here. The first southbounder we meet on our way north.
We have a lively conversation exchanging our experiences (injuries, pain, time pressure, lucky coincidences, difficult terrain) but he has to head out soon to stay in his schedule to reach Bluff by Christmas (he has already done 35km that day and would still walk to the hut we came from that day). Just another week and he will have completed the whole trail! It is tempting to stay and chill in the sun at this lovely hut after a break.
Though it’s already 5pm, we finally decide to do the last climb and head over to Fern Burn Hut which would give us the chance to reach Wanaka tomorrow. It’s a Saturday and once we get there after 2.5hrs quite a few people who just do an overnighter (walking up from the car park and going down next morning) are already there.
Quick wash and then dinner. I am so hungry I could eat a horse!
Day 69 | Tentsite @ km461
21 December 2022 | 18°C | 22km
More interesting examples of how people have different perceptions of things. First question of the day though: walk along the Te Araroa on top of a ridge or the an alternate route (Timaru River Track) in the river valley joining the TA later again?
We opt for the river track which results in several river crossings as expected in a nice, wide valley. A welcome change after the climbs on the Motatapu Track. The current of the water is surprisingly strong, probably a good training for the upcoming Ahuriri river crossing in a couple of days. The water is „dirty“ with a grey color the reason for which are several earth slides way further up the valley as we would see the next day, still walking along that same river.
The only people we would meet today is a young sporty couple of locals walking a loop track and coming from the opposite direction. We chat for a while and when asking of how many crossings are still to come, he replies probably one while she says rather five to six (which is very close to what we would experience).
Day 70 | Tin Hut
22 December 2022 | 17°C | 23km
It’s always great to sleep in a tent after a few town days. Birds singing in the morning and the sound of a river in the distance.
Just the mosquitoes are destroying a peaceful and quiet breakfast experience. The morning walk is the usual up and down on a narrow trail either on the left side or the right side of the river, and sometimes also in the river.
Top Timaru Hut is the lunch stop of this sunny day ☀️ before we head up to Martha’s saddle at 1690m, the highest elevation so far. Also the first location to touch some snow, though it is just a small patch. Very cold hands after a little snowball fight. 🥶
Nice happy ending after a long but awesome day when we unexpectedly find a small hut. Just a quick wash in the cold river before jumping into the sleeping bag. Brrrrrr!
Day 71 | Lake Ohau
23 December 2022 | 20°C | 35km
“No way I am going to walk 35km after todays long day” is what I said the previous evening when looking at the map. The day starts easy though and in no time we have 10km done before reaching the river. THE river is the Ahuiriri river, a major crossing, that we read about in the trail notes but also heard about from about every southbound hiker that crossed our way. An Austrian girl we met on the way to Wanaka said it was totally doable and that water reached to her hips roughly. Good to hear as she was roughly my height and not a 1.80m guy.
It looks easy when Phil is crossing. It’s not that easy for me. The first few meters are pretty easy but the current picks up once I’m roughly 5 meters in. Wow, how strong it is! I am struggling to keep balance, and keep my feet on the ground. I know I have to lean forward against the water, but I feel that once I lean forward my feet will lift off and I will I would start floating. And then it happens: my feet lift off and for a few seconds I start swimming. I swallow some water, try not to panic and manage to get my feet back on the ground again. The trick is to get a solid stand by pressing each heel against a big rock. Also, crucial: staying focused as it is quite a long crossing.
Once I am at the other side, I quickly change my wet clothes and we head on. We briefly chat with Catherine, a northbound hiker who sits beside the trail having lunch. She tried to cross the day before in the afternoon, but felt it is too sketchy and thus decided to take the bridge about 3hrs further down the road.
We make good progress while the trail climbs steadily despite the weather before the last climb not looking promising: rain clouds ahead. We decide to continue towards the saddle but a small doubt arises once we hear a thunder. Was it the right decision? Now we have to push through! Luckily, after a bit of rain, the sun magically comes out again. Why do people go up mountains? Because of the joy of getting to the top. At least that is the strong feeling I have today when crossing the saddle.
It will still be a long descent though and once we reach the tree line, there are a lot of fallen trees all over the trail and I feel that I am more stumbling down than anything else. Once close to the Lake Ohau, we call the lodge to see if they have availability, a meal and a hot tub. They promise to keep the bar open and confirm they have a hot tub but once we reach the road, we realize that the lodge is still 3.5km away. Not many cars on this road, just two in the opposite direction.
We are looking for potential tent sites already when we hear the distant sound of a car. Our only chance to still get to the lodge! I wonder if I should just jump on the road but fortunately the driver slows down as he sees us and is happy to give us a ride.
Realization of the day: 35km and a steep climb? Done!
